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黄河在中国人心目中

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一直有着很重要的位置

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现在有一队探索队

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要寻找它的源头

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跟随它延绵五千五百公里

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一直去到大海

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这个节目纪录了他们的旅程

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在西藏一个夏日的清早

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暮色之中有三架越野吉普车

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一架接一架在迂回曲折的路上行走

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当探索队找到中国最伟大的河流

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黄河在阿尼玛卿山上的源头之后

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他们就沿着河道继续他们的旅程

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行程是怎么样的呢

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他们会沿着黄河

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经过沼泽和沙漠

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沿着急流和狭窄的山峡而下

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完成长达五千五百公里的旅程

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入夜之后这个山区的气温

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可以低至零度以下

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迷蒙的朝日

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在河上形成一层薄雾

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在这个山区夏季的时间很短

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走运的话一年也有三、四个月

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黄河绕过一个个山麓小丘

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开始了它向南方进发的旅程

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探索队面对的部份困难是

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在黄河源头有很多条支流

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它们在草原间兜兜转转一番之后

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才绕回黄河主流

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这些纵横交错的水道

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就好像中国书法一样复杂

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又好像一条条血管

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向外伸展，纵横交错

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最后才会汇流进入大动脉

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有人说黄河是中国的血脉所在

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的确很贴切

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这条大河直入中国心脏地带

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传送食物和居民

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而最重要的是传递观念

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要一直沿着黄河流经的地方进发

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原来跟找出它的源头一样困难

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当探索队在高原地带

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再无路可走的时候

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他们只好放弃坐吉普车

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幸好有当地人为他们提供马匹

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而这些马似乎不怕在

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遍地石头的地上行走

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这条路线是动物走了多年的路径

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探索队至少可以安慰自己

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不用在这里下水渡河

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当他们见到人家怎样过河

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就更加觉得走运

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西藏人避免自己被水冲走的

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唯一方法

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就是紧紧抓住马尾

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由马匹拉他们过河

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在这里做一只马真是辛苦

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他们故意叫得这么凄厉

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目的是要吓走在西藏民间传说中

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住在黄河流域一带

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一只身上长满尖刺

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满嘴尖长牙的怪兽

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用聚苯乙烯做成的浮筒已经过时

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就好像他们的传统服饰

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与现代格格不入一样

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皮袋是用来装着衣服和随身物品

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然后他们要冒着寒穿回衣服

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这群西藏人一披上斗篷或穿上大衣

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便会策马而去，继续上路

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这座是阿尼玛卿山

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它是环绕着黄河北面的

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昆仑山脉之中最高的山峰

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这座山超过六千米

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积雪遍及山顶和山腰

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令它成为一座只可远观的山

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当地人称它为诸神所聚居的山

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阵阵刺骨的北风吹向山顶

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粉状的雪散落在四周

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如果山顶是一个冰封的荒原

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那么山腰间就是一个惊喜

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长满茂密丛林的山麓小丘

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是野生动物的乐园

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不少动物都是这区独有的

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狼和熊都会在附近猎食

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甚至有人在这里见过

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神出鬼没的大山猫

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这些敏捷的麝鹿

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因为身上的香腺而被猎人苦苦追捕

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虽然捕猎它们要有牌照

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但是由于香腺可以制香水

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高级医药和催情药物

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麝鹿始终不断被捕捉

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不过也有西藏采药人来到这一带

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爬上高山采摘促进健康的草药

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他们要找的是

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只会在超过五千米高山上

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生长的草药

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他们有佩枪，用作防范野兽的袭击

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不会用作伤害无辜

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这些生长于碎石堆中

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好像蓟一样的植物

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就是平日十分罕见的雪莲

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它们开花的时间很短

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只可以在夏季期间采摘

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被压扁磨碎之后

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它们会成为一种疗效甚佳的药物

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可以医治一般疾病

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对肾脏毛病特别有效

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远东地区的人一向提倡草药治疗

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由于西方越来越接受这种另类疗法

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这些采药人要很辛苦地

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满足中国和其它地方的需求

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他们要小心翼翼地

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把雪莲连根拔起

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因为每部份都有不同的医药疗效

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西藏人除了可以拉着马尾过河

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还有一个选择，就是乘坐羊皮筏

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在黄河上游这里

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没有人听过桥这样东西

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如果不想湿身

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你只有坐羊皮筏过河

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这几位喇嘛扛着的

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就是设计巧妙的羊皮筏

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他们住在市场对面的寺庙

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因此每天都要过河去市场

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他们的红色羊毛僧侣袍

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是西藏佛教独有

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与印度僧侣的橙黄色袍大有分别

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不论是马还是牦牛

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总之所有动物都要下水游过对岸

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不是每个家庭

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都可以有自己的羊皮筏

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幸好至少有四个船家在这一段

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阔二百米的河道上以开船为生

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他们说就算好像他们那样

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每天开几次船过这条河

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但是一下水也绝对不可以松懈

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因为你根本不可能控制羊皮筏

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只可以任水流差遣

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羊皮筏就好像浮标一样

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在河中随水飘荡

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由水流决定上岸的地方

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船家把去完市场的人送回家

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又把住在市场的佛教信众送去寺庙

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当羊被剪去羊毛

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肉又被人切去食用之后

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它对西藏人来说仍然有用途

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把羊皮翻过来

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再用盐和油令它变成防水

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再把它们充气

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就会成为羊皮筏的浮筒

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羊颈和三只脚会用皮绳绑牢

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然后在第四只脚吹气

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好像吹汽球一样

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绑好了第四只脚就可以出发了

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听起来很简单

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但是高地上空气稀薄

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单是呼吸已经很困难

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对这些居民来说

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一块钱船费已经是很贵

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不过小朋友和动物则免费

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这些船家就是西藏经济的企业家

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由于在这里没有其它方法渡河

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所以这种服务一直深受欢迎

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除非水位太高

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否则他们七天都会开船

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看过别人怎样过河之后

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探索队庆幸自己

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可以用较现代化的交通工具

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他们会坐越野吉普车穿越大草原

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探索队离开山区和河源

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大概三百公里

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他们安全地横渡黄河

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来到他们这段时间见到的第一个镇

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达利镇这个地方

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曾经是青海省的省会

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许多年前篷车载住一车又一车的

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珍贵丝绸和香料经过这里

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到西藏拉萨著名的达赖喇嘛寺庙

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朝圣的人也会路经此地

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现在比昔日宁静，不过仍然繁盛

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这里的一万九千人之中

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只有二千人不是藏民

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这里隶属西藏自治区

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今天是墟期

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有很多人远道而来出售货品

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这个不是西方那种自由市场

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市政府会以合理价格买入货物

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对西藏的游牧民族来说

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采药去卖可以增加收入来源

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这个女人采摘到

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非常珍贵的冬虫夏草

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它除了有医疗作用

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也是烹调高级中菜的材料

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顾名思义

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这种植物的生活周期怪异

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它们的种子在昆虫的幼虫内

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度过冬天

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在春天就会长出昆虫形状的根

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一公斤冬虫夏草

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市值等于一个游牧民族

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平均一年的收入

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把它们出口到香港等地售卖

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价钱便会再升高五倍

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镇上其中一个设施是诊所

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门牌用中文和西藏文写成

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每个市镇最少有一间

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采用传统西藏药物

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治疗各种病症的诊所

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这里没有讲究的医疗设施

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所有人都坐在同一地方等候诊症

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别看这位医师年纪轻轻

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他曾经在几家著名的学院

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钻研西藏医疗法

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他会用六根手指为病人把脉

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这个是西藏医学之中

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最重要的一个技巧

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这个小朋友有胃痛

220
00:15:25,805 --> 00:15:28,207
由于西藏人进食大量肉类

221
00:15:28,207 --> 00:15:29,609
少吃其它食物

222
00:15:29,609 --> 00:15:31,777
所以经常都会有胃病

223
00:15:31,777 --> 00:15:33,713
小朋友的爸爸远道而来

224
00:15:33,713 --> 00:15:37,706
咨询医生的意见

225
00:15:38,684 --> 00:15:40,753
这么漂亮的书法就是药方

226
00:15:40,753 --> 00:15:44,746
另外也有一个特效疗法

227
00:15:48,661 --> 00:15:50,496
就是用“艾”疗法

228
00:15:50,496 --> 00:15:52,632
就是在皮肤上燃烧草药

229
00:15:52,632 --> 00:15:56,625
小朋友勇敢地忍受着痛楚

230
00:16:03,643 --> 00:16:06,646
这里所有医生都用自己采摘的草药

231
00:16:06,646 --> 00:16:08,681
混合而成药物治病

232
00:16:08,681 --> 00:16:10,483
他们有时甚至会去到

233
00:16:10,483 --> 00:16:12,618
阿尼玛卿山的山麓

234
00:16:12,618 --> 00:16:14,820
采摘一些独特的草药

235
00:16:14,820 --> 00:16:16,255
他们用的材料

236
00:16:16,255 --> 00:16:19,025
听起来好像女巫炮制毒药的材料

237
00:16:19,025 --> 00:16:23,018
医师会用研钵和捣锤把材料磨碎

238
00:16:23,062 --> 00:16:25,965
种子、兔子心脏、牛胆囊

239
00:16:25,965 --> 00:16:29,435
植物根茎，还有贝壳、化石

240
00:16:29,435 --> 00:16:31,637
粉状宝石和动物角

241
00:16:31,637 --> 00:16:35,630
这些全都是西藏药物常见的材料

242
00:16:39,612 --> 00:16:43,449
药物成份当然要根据病情轻重调节

243
00:16:43,449 --> 00:16:45,751
如果是胆石发炎之类的病症

244
00:16:45,751 --> 00:16:48,888
主要会用牛胆囊治疗病者

245
00:16:48,888 --> 00:16:52,881
如果是关节炎，药物成份就会不同

246
00:17:05,504 --> 00:17:07,840
这样治病听起来不太可靠

247
00:17:07,840 --> 00:17:09,709
不过的确有效

248
00:17:09,709 --> 00:17:12,745
诊所的主管答应探索队的要求

249
00:17:12,745 --> 00:17:16,738
为大家讲解一下西藏医学的来源

250
00:17:19,051 --> 00:17:20,586
他说西藏的学者

251
00:17:20,586 --> 00:17:23,723
多年前研究过印度的基本医学

252
00:17:23,723 --> 00:17:25,591
而他们则去芜存菁

253
00:17:25,591 --> 00:17:27,893
发展新的医学系统

254
00:17:27,893 --> 00:17:30,730
每个医生要问自己一个基本问题

255
00:17:30,730 --> 00:17:32,865
就是为什么人会生病

256
00:17:32,865 --> 00:17:35,835
他说西藏人尝试解答这个问题

257
00:17:35,835 --> 00:17:37,603
超过一千年

258
00:17:37,603 --> 00:17:39,538
他们相信人之所以会病

259
00:17:39,538 --> 00:17:41,607
是因为身体平衡失调

260
00:17:41,607 --> 00:17:44,810
人的思想和身体是有连系的

261
00:17:44,810 --> 00:17:46,579
人体不同器官

262
00:17:46,579 --> 00:17:49,515
心、肝、脾、肺、肾

263
00:17:49,515 --> 00:17:52,051
血液、腺体、肌肉等等

264
00:17:52,051 --> 00:17:56,044
都是与灵魂连结一起的

265
00:18:01,026 --> 00:18:03,763
因此研习西藏医学的人

266
00:18:03,763 --> 00:18:07,756
会以恢复身心平衡为治疗的大前提

267
00:18:17,476 --> 00:18:19,745
你一定以为在一个如此美的地方

268
00:18:19,745 --> 00:18:22,615
放眼远望是一望无际的草原

269
00:18:22,615 --> 00:18:24,150
又有清风相伴

270
00:18:24,150 --> 00:18:26,585
想身体和心灵变得不平衡

271
00:18:26,585 --> 00:18:28,921
似乎是一件颇困难的事

272
00:18:28,921 --> 00:18:30,923
现代西藏人的生活模式

273
00:18:30,923 --> 00:18:32,525
跟以前差不多

274
00:18:32,525 --> 00:18:33,926
他们把牧养的牲畜

275
00:18:33,926 --> 00:18:36,962
由一块草原赶去另一块草原

276
00:18:36,962 --> 00:18:40,955
由一个饮水处赶去另一个饮水处

277
00:18:44,136 --> 00:18:46,405
他们每年迁居达四、五次

278
00:18:46,405 --> 00:18:49,208
为饥饿的牛羊寻找肥美的草

279
00:18:49,208 --> 00:18:52,578
游牧民族迁徙的高峰期就是夏季

280
00:18:52,578 --> 00:18:54,413
跟随他们的牛羊

281
00:18:54,413 --> 00:18:56,882
由这片草原去到另外一片

282
00:18:56,882 --> 00:18:58,951
牧羊人要趁有草的时候

283
00:18:58,951 --> 00:19:01,520
让动物尽量的吃

284
00:19:01,520 --> 00:19:05,513
否则到了冬季便无草可吃

285
00:19:09,195 --> 00:19:11,564
这家人正收拾细软上路

286
00:19:11,564 --> 00:19:13,899
不过要先喝杯茶先起行

287
00:19:13,899 --> 00:19:15,835
西藏人样貌俊美

288
00:19:15,835 --> 00:19:18,237
有些小朋友肤色比较黝黑

289
00:19:18,237 --> 00:19:20,206
映衬着明眸皓齿

290
00:19:20,206 --> 00:19:21,807
望起来特别漂亮

291
00:19:21,807 --> 00:19:24,710
妇女身上戴着很多镶有珊瑚

292
00:19:24,710 --> 00:19:27,580
绿松石和琥珀的首饰

293
00:19:27,580 --> 00:19:30,483
再配上金或银的耳环和项链

294
00:19:30,483 --> 00:19:34,476
这是部族战争流传下来的保险政策

295
00:19:34,653 --> 00:19:36,522
把贵重首饰全戴在身上

296
00:19:36,522 --> 00:19:38,624
就最安全不过

297
00:19:38,624 --> 00:19:41,827
粗而乌黑的头发是西藏女人的骄傲

298
00:19:41,827 --> 00:19:45,264
她们通常会束两条辫子或者绑马尾

299
00:19:45,264 --> 00:19:48,868
再饰以大量发饰

300
00:19:48,868 --> 00:19:51,904
到迁徙的时候全家上下总动员

301
00:19:51,904 --> 00:19:54,640
连最年幼的成员也有任务在身

302
00:19:54,640 --> 00:19:56,575
除了石造的炉灶

303
00:19:56,575 --> 00:19:58,911
他们一切的家当都可以搬动

304
00:19:58,911 --> 00:20:00,880
当他们明年重临旧地

305
00:20:00,880 --> 00:20:03,849
这个炉灶就会迎接他们归来

306
00:20:03,849 --> 00:20:06,785
西藏人有一条不成文的规定

307
00:20:06,785 --> 00:20:08,687
就是不可以拆毁或者破坏

308
00:20:08,687 --> 00:20:12,680
别人留下来的煮食炉灶

309
00:20:12,958 --> 00:20:15,928
游牧民族之间有很强的社群意识

310
00:20:15,928 --> 00:20:18,497
他们视彼此为一个大家庭

311
00:20:18,497 --> 00:20:21,233
在有需要的时候会互相帮忙

312
00:20:21,233 --> 00:20:22,835
就连他们的帐篷

313
00:20:22,835 --> 00:20:26,828
也是由社区合作制成

314
00:20:28,974 --> 00:20:30,976
中国建国之后一直尝试

315
00:20:30,976 --> 00:20:33,979
把这群游牧民族融入乡镇之中

316
00:20:33,979 --> 00:20:35,648
跟美国尝试处理

317
00:20:35,648 --> 00:20:37,650
印第安人的手法一样

318
00:20:37,650 --> 00:20:40,853
政府最关心的是小朋友的教育问题

319
00:20:40,853 --> 00:20:42,821
但是对西藏人来说

320
00:20:42,821 --> 00:20:45,324
传统的生活习惯就是一切

321
00:20:45,324 --> 00:20:46,592
他们极力抗拒

322
00:20:46,592 --> 00:20:50,585
那些所谓融合他们的政策

323
00:20:55,234 --> 00:20:56,902
这个家庭透过翻译员

324
00:20:56,902 --> 00:21:00,895
向探索队解释他们的生活习惯

325
00:21:02,875 --> 00:21:04,843
为什么经常要搬家呢

326
00:21:04,843 --> 00:21:07,613
男主人说他们要找新鲜的草

327
00:21:07,613 --> 00:21:11,606
他们要去有草有水的地方

328
00:21:20,693 --> 00:21:22,761
那你们什么时候回来

329
00:21:22,761 --> 00:21:26,754
他说明年这个时候，他们便会回来

330
00:21:37,309 --> 00:21:39,612
由于这个游牧家庭急于起程

331
00:21:39,612 --> 00:21:43,605
要经过翻译员去沟通也颇费时间

332
00:21:46,218 --> 00:21:50,211
再见…

333
00:22:09,675 --> 00:22:11,143
这个家庭一家八口

334
00:22:11,143 --> 00:22:13,746
共要照顾二百五十头羊

335
00:22:13,746 --> 00:22:15,714
和一百八十头牦牛

336
00:22:15,714 --> 00:22:17,916
他们出发的时候是大清早

337
00:22:17,916 --> 00:22:20,285
到夜晚就要找到落脚点

338
00:22:20,285 --> 00:22:23,789
清理好一直沿用的炉灶开火煮茶

339
00:22:23,789 --> 00:22:27,782
然后在新居享受第一杯茶

340
00:22:34,933 --> 00:22:38,237
探索队把充了气的羊皮放在车顶

341
00:22:38,237 --> 00:22:42,230
然后继续向河边进发

342
00:22:54,386 --> 00:22:56,288
距离达利大概一百公里

343
00:22:56,288 --> 00:22:58,190
探索队来到一个深谷

344
00:22:58,190 --> 00:23:02,183
河水在山石间川流不息

345
00:23:04,730 --> 00:23:05,764
这里无路可走

346
00:23:05,764 --> 00:23:08,233
继续沿黄河而下的唯一方法

347
00:23:08,233 --> 00:23:12,226
就是走水路

348
00:23:16,241 --> 00:23:18,277
在把生命交给黄河之前

349
00:23:18,277 --> 00:23:20,145
探索队特别请教一下

350
00:23:20,145 --> 00:23:24,138
在这一带水域开船为生的船家

351
00:23:25,317 --> 00:23:29,310
其中一个成员紧张地问第一个问题

352
00:23:29,455 --> 00:23:32,991
我们要跪在羊皮筏上，是否安全

353
00:23:32,991 --> 00:23:35,294
船家说当然安全了

354
00:23:35,294 --> 00:23:37,329
队员看见幼幼的船架

355
00:23:37,329 --> 00:23:38,964
还是不太放心

356
00:23:38,964 --> 00:23:41,800
船家叮嘱他千万别站起来

357
00:23:41,800 --> 00:23:45,137
由于水流太急，他们一定要抓牢

358
00:23:45,137 --> 00:23:46,472
不过他们最担心的

359
00:23:46,472 --> 00:23:50,465
还是羊皮筏是否稳固

360
00:23:57,916 --> 00:24:00,352
我们去上游还是下游

361
00:24:00,352 --> 00:24:02,788
谁料船家说要横向过去

362
00:24:02,788 --> 00:24:04,823
任由流水决定冲去哪儿

363
00:24:04,823 --> 00:24:08,816
完全没有选择

364
00:24:14,466 --> 00:24:15,934
成员在抽签

365
00:24:15,934 --> 00:24:17,202
他们很紧张

366
00:24:17,202 --> 00:24:21,195
因为抽中短签者就要坐羊皮筏

367
00:24:24,309 --> 00:24:26,145
为了避免遇到意外时

368
00:24:26,145 --> 00:24:28,313
整队探索队全军覆没

369
00:24:28,313 --> 00:24:31,984
幸运的几个可以坐自备的橡皮艇

370
00:24:31,984 --> 00:24:35,354
他们念念有词，开始他们的航程

371
00:24:35,354 --> 00:24:36,989
东西放得是否平衡

372
00:24:36,989 --> 00:24:39,424
羊皮是否已充满了气

373
00:24:39,424 --> 00:24:42,761
有队员觉得软软的，不过太迟了

374
00:24:42,761 --> 00:24:46,754
水流已经把他们的羊皮筏冲了出去

375
00:24:53,272 --> 00:24:54,306
这个大概是

376
00:24:54,306 --> 00:24:56,842
他们暂时遇过最可怕的经历

377
00:24:56,842 --> 00:24:59,912
虽然已经有五个人发疯似的划桨

378
00:24:59,912 --> 00:25:03,182
但是对着滚滚流水怎样划也无用

379
00:25:03,182 --> 00:25:04,349
经过悬崖的时候

380
00:25:04,349 --> 00:25:05,884
沙土纷纷落下

381
00:25:05,884 --> 00:25:08,453
翻起好像云一样的泥尘

382
00:25:08,453 --> 00:25:12,357
这些沙土就是令黄河这么黄的原因

383
00:25:12,357 --> 00:25:14,493
羊皮筏之所以挡得了水流

384
00:25:14,493 --> 00:25:17,496
是因为羊皮浮筒之间留有空位

385
00:25:17,496 --> 00:25:19,164
提供活动空间

386
00:25:19,164 --> 00:25:21,400
吸走水流的震荡力

387
00:25:21,400 --> 00:25:22,868
富有经验的水手

388
00:25:22,868 --> 00:25:25,404
会在需要时放走少量气

389
00:25:25,404 --> 00:25:27,539
以调节水流的冲力

390
00:25:27,539 --> 00:25:31,176
当水流特别急湍时便有需要这么做

391
00:25:31,176 --> 00:25:33,278
羊皮筏载住探索队成员

392
00:25:33,278 --> 00:25:35,848
就好像游乐场的激流旅程一样

393
00:25:35,848 --> 00:25:39,841
一支箭似的飞向下游

394
00:25:46,491 --> 00:25:48,560
沿下游走了大约十公里

395
00:25:48,560 --> 00:25:51,430
成员庆幸羊皮筏终于泊岸

396
00:25:51,430 --> 00:25:55,423
沙滩上有当地人在淘金

397
00:26:04,376 --> 00:26:05,377
跟他们闲谈

398
00:26:05,377 --> 00:26:09,370
可以一窥他们的生活模式

399
00:26:12,851 --> 00:26:14,519
这位男士告诉队员

400
00:26:14,519 --> 00:26:18,512
他今天淘了大约一克的金沙

401
00:26:19,892 --> 00:26:21,393
队员都甚有兴趣想知道

402
00:26:21,393 --> 00:26:23,395
怎样在黄河淘金

403
00:26:23,395 --> 00:26:25,230
原来方法很简单

404
00:26:25,230 --> 00:26:28,400
把沙子捞上来，让它们流在板上

405
00:26:28,400 --> 00:26:32,393
金沙比普通的沙重，会卡在凹槽

406
00:26:35,607 --> 00:26:39,600
他还指给队员看

407
00:26:45,517 --> 00:26:48,120
队员问他一天可以淘到多少金

408
00:26:48,120 --> 00:26:50,155
他说大约二克左右

409
00:26:50,155 --> 00:26:54,148
大概可以赚到十五块人民币

410
00:27:08,907 --> 00:27:11,310
到底黄河里面的金多不多

411
00:27:11,310 --> 00:27:15,303
他说有很多

412
00:27:23,221 --> 00:27:27,214
而这里的金粒大约值八块人民币

413
00:27:46,545 --> 00:27:49,247
不是所有金光闪闪的都是金

414
00:27:49,247 --> 00:27:52,617
但知道河水不只是泥沙令它呈黄色

415
00:27:52,617 --> 00:27:56,610
也是一件好事

416
00:28:11,403 --> 00:28:13,305
过了狭窄的河谷之后

417
00:28:13,305 --> 00:28:15,273
黄河变得较为平静

418
00:28:15,273 --> 00:28:16,508
它弯弯曲曲的

419
00:28:16,508 --> 00:28:19,244
经过四川北部的沼泽地

420
00:28:19,244 --> 00:28:21,313
向西北方向流去

421
00:28:21,313 --> 00:28:25,306
蜿蜒弯曲地环抱着阿尼玛卿山

422
00:28:28,286 --> 00:28:30,589
这里是黄河九曲的第一曲

423
00:28:30,589 --> 00:28:32,991
中国人相信黄河是一条

424
00:28:32,991 --> 00:28:35,427
弯弯曲曲的龙或者蛇

425
00:28:35,427 --> 00:28:39,420
黄河本身就代表着中国和中国人

426
00:28:42,300 --> 00:28:44,269
探索队来到一条村庄

427
00:28:44,269 --> 00:28:47,339
唐克是另一个西藏自治区

428
00:28:47,339 --> 00:28:50,275
这条村位于四川接近海拔

429
00:28:50,275 --> 00:28:54,268
三千五百米的高地之上

430
00:29:02,788 --> 00:29:04,589
这里是探索队遇到的

431
00:29:04,589 --> 00:29:06,591
第一个藏民长居地

432
00:29:06,591 --> 00:29:07,759
这里的西藏人

433
00:29:07,759 --> 00:29:10,262
放弃了传统的游牧生活

434
00:29:10,262 --> 00:29:14,255
在十公里之外的草原上放牧马匹

435
00:29:15,500 --> 00:29:17,369
跟很多农耕社群一样

436
00:29:17,369 --> 00:29:19,805
小朋友和老人家都无所事事

437
00:29:19,805 --> 00:29:22,307
只是看着时间流逝

438
00:29:22,307 --> 00:29:24,509
每条村都会有一间佛寺

439
00:29:24,509 --> 00:29:26,678
这条村也不例外

440
00:29:26,678 --> 00:29:28,447
这位婆婆拿着念珠

441
00:29:28,447 --> 00:29:30,649
在不停地诵读经文

442
00:29:30,649 --> 00:29:33,518
让我躺卧于纯洁白莲花之上

443
00:29:33,518 --> 00:29:37,511
于真理之中顿悟过来

444
00:29:41,493 --> 00:29:43,462
这些制作精美的经轮

445
00:29:43,462 --> 00:29:46,198
是西藏佛教独有的建设

446
00:29:46,198 --> 00:29:48,400
每个都刻有佛教经典

447
00:29:48,400 --> 00:29:52,393
每转一个圈就等于念了一次经

448
00:30:02,814 --> 00:30:05,484
佛教徒相信只有不断诵经

449
00:30:05,484 --> 00:30:08,386
他们才可以在死后登上极乐

450
00:30:08,386 --> 00:30:09,855
他们重量不重质

451
00:30:09,855 --> 00:30:13,848
所以每天都会花时间诵经

452
00:30:19,598 --> 00:30:21,500
佛教在七世纪末的时候

453
00:30:21,500 --> 00:30:23,268
由印度传入西藏

454
00:30:23,268 --> 00:30:26,338
在十五世纪新一代的宗教领袖

455
00:30:26,338 --> 00:30:28,573
他们称之为“达赖喇嘛”

456
00:30:28,573 --> 00:30:30,342
或者“智慧之海”

457
00:30:30,342 --> 00:30:33,512
成为西藏的宗教和政治的领袖

458
00:30:33,512 --> 00:30:34,746
透过他们的领导

459
00:30:34,746 --> 00:30:36,581
佛教被净化为一种

460
00:30:36,581 --> 00:30:38,917
西藏独一无二的信仰

461
00:30:38,917 --> 00:30:41,820
在这里黄河与它其中一条支流

462
00:30:41,820 --> 00:30:43,455
白河汇合

463
00:30:43,455 --> 00:30:45,657
西藏人视这里为圣地

464
00:30:45,657 --> 00:30:48,193
而这两条河就是兄弟

465
00:30:48,193 --> 00:30:52,186
黄河是哥哥，白河就是弟弟

466
00:30:57,235 --> 00:30:58,803
西藏人出于尊敬

467
00:30:58,803 --> 00:31:01,339
而挂起印有经文的旗帜

468
00:31:01,339 --> 00:31:04,209
藏民相信当旗帜随风飘扬

469
00:31:04,209 --> 00:31:08,202
上面的经文会上达至天庭

470
00:31:12,350 --> 00:31:15,420
这一连串的旗帜写满佛教经文

471
00:31:15,420 --> 00:31:18,890
西藏人相信有神灵住在旗帜当中

472
00:31:18,890 --> 00:31:20,892
每当有风吹起旗帜

473
00:31:20,892 --> 00:31:24,885
他们就会聆听神灵的声音

474
00:31:30,368 --> 00:31:32,537
宗教对他们来说就是生活

475
00:31:32,537 --> 00:31:35,407
儿童自小被灌输宗教理念

476
00:31:35,407 --> 00:31:39,400
他们不能够选择不相信

477
00:31:46,851 --> 00:31:50,388
每天向本地的神明和佛教的神灵

478
00:31:50,388 --> 00:31:51,856
告祭和诵经

479
00:31:51,856 --> 00:31:54,192
他们便会保佑你健康

480
00:31:54,192 --> 00:31:56,728
生活丰足以及衣食无忧

481
00:31:56,728 --> 00:32:00,721
最重要的是你死后可以登上极乐

482
00:32:13,311 --> 00:32:15,580
过了四、五月短暂的春季

483
00:32:15,580 --> 00:32:18,516
以及六、七月更短暂的夏季之后

484
00:32:18,516 --> 00:32:19,884
在黄河的上游

485
00:32:19,884 --> 00:32:22,787
八月份就是雨季的开始

486
00:32:22,787 --> 00:32:26,780
雨会持续下好几日，甚至几星期

487
00:32:36,268 --> 00:32:38,903
当地人没地方可去，又没工作可做

488
00:32:38,903 --> 00:32:42,896
只好站在这里赏雨

489
00:32:50,382 --> 00:32:53,485
黄河河道突然深了阔了

490
00:32:53,485 --> 00:32:55,253
探索队第一次明白到

491
00:32:55,253 --> 00:32:58,290
黄河和沿河而居的居民之间

492
00:32:58,290 --> 00:32:59,858
那种脆弱关系

493
00:32:59,858 --> 00:33:01,626
他们需要黄河的水

494
00:33:01,626 --> 00:33:05,619
但又恐怕它会泛滥

495
00:33:29,354 --> 00:33:30,455
离开四川之后

496
00:33:30,455 --> 00:33:32,691
黄河便会流向甘肃省

497
00:33:32,691 --> 00:33:35,694
一连串巍峨的山脉点缀天际

498
00:33:35,694 --> 00:33:38,496
这里由深不见底的峡谷

499
00:33:38,496 --> 00:33:41,366
以及片片草原交织而成

500
00:33:41,366 --> 00:33:43,335
黄河并没有驻足留意

501
00:33:43,335 --> 00:33:44,836
继续向前流动

502
00:33:44,836 --> 00:33:48,829
寻找大海的出口

503
00:33:50,608 --> 00:33:52,711
西藏人是出色的骑师

504
00:33:52,711 --> 00:33:55,380
饲养了一种特别品种的马

505
00:33:55,380 --> 00:33:56,815
在中国被称为

506
00:33:56,815 --> 00:33:59,818
“在黄河河湾饲养的品种”

507
00:33:59,818 --> 00:34:02,320
黄河的名字多番在中文

508
00:34:02,320 --> 00:34:04,656
以及藏文的谚语中出现

509
00:34:04,656 --> 00:34:08,649
显示它彻底融入了语言和文化之中

510
00:34:10,395 --> 00:34:13,398
当黄河流经甘肃省玛曲的时候

511
00:34:13,398 --> 00:34:17,391
地势由草原骤变成一片沙漠荒野

512
00:34:35,353 --> 00:34:37,789
这里空无一物，渺无人烟

513
00:34:37,789 --> 00:34:39,657
探索队就在这个地方

514
00:34:39,657 --> 00:34:43,650
目睹西藏的传统天葬

515
00:35:08,086 --> 00:35:09,521
跟做其它事情一样

516
00:35:09,521 --> 00:35:11,055
西藏葬礼的仪式

517
00:35:11,055 --> 00:35:14,893
都要按照流传多年的传统进行

518
00:35:14,893 --> 00:35:16,561
这个就是天葬

519
00:35:16,561 --> 00:35:19,097
一群披着红色僧袍的僧侣

520
00:35:19,097 --> 00:35:22,567
会把尸首送上山，献给兀鹰

521
00:35:22,567 --> 00:35:25,603
每条村都会有举行天葬的山

522
00:35:25,603 --> 00:35:27,138
尸体会被放在一个

523
00:35:27,138 --> 00:35:29,541
石砌的长方形平台上

524
00:35:29,541 --> 00:35:31,209
一行人上山的时候

525
00:35:31,209 --> 00:35:35,202
僧侣会诵经赶出在死者身上的邪灵

526
00:35:39,451 --> 00:35:40,652
这个葬礼的精髓

527
00:35:40,652 --> 00:35:42,687
在于让死者的灵魂

528
00:35:42,687 --> 00:35:44,756
平和地离开这个世界

529
00:35:44,756 --> 00:35:47,025
并且早登极乐

530
00:35:47,025 --> 00:35:48,560
它代表死者离开这个

531
00:35:48,560 --> 00:35:50,762
受苦和悲惨的世界

532
00:35:50,762 --> 00:35:54,766
去到一个极乐净土

533
00:35:54,766 --> 00:35:56,835
每次有新尸体带上山

534
00:35:56,835 --> 00:35:59,137
山上都会挂上一块

535
00:35:59,137 --> 00:36:00,772
有经文的新旗帜

536
00:36:00,772 --> 00:36:04,576
在大城市中，葬礼仪式已经被简化

537
00:36:04,576 --> 00:36:06,478
但是在这里，每个细节

538
00:36:06,478 --> 00:36:10,471
都要依足几个世纪以来的传统

539
00:36:11,549 --> 00:36:15,542
僧侣诚心诵经超渡死者亡魂

540
00:36:17,789 --> 00:36:21,782
时间好像停顿了似的

541
00:36:24,496 --> 00:36:27,632
兀鹰受到诵经和号角的声音吸引

542
00:36:27,632 --> 00:36:29,868
开始在天空盘旋

543
00:36:29,868 --> 00:36:31,135
在佛教中

544
00:36:31,135 --> 00:36:33,605
兀鹰并不是好像在西方社会中

545
00:36:33,605 --> 00:36:36,641
被人视为猎食动物，惹人讨厌

546
00:36:36,641 --> 00:36:39,744
西藏人认为它们是神圣的使者

547
00:36:39,744 --> 00:36:43,737
会保护他们

548
00:36:45,483 --> 00:36:47,719
这些大鸟有弯曲的鸟嘴

549
00:36:47,719 --> 00:36:51,712
以及孔武有力的爪

550
00:36:54,659 --> 00:36:58,652
它们拍翼的声音划破寂静的天空

551
00:37:02,233 --> 00:37:03,668
它们越飞越低

552
00:37:03,668 --> 00:37:06,671
最后降落在平台附近的地方

553
00:37:06,671 --> 00:37:09,674
西藏人相信当兀鹰吃掉死者

554
00:37:09,674 --> 00:37:11,843
剩下这副皮肉躯壳之后

555
00:37:11,843 --> 00:37:15,836
他的灵魂会随着兀鹰去到极乐世界

556
00:37:43,908 --> 00:37:46,611
僧侣念诵完告别经文之后

557
00:37:46,611 --> 00:37:49,314
便把尸体献给兀鹰享用

558
00:37:49,314 --> 00:37:51,549
探索队访问大喇嘛时

559
00:37:51,549 --> 00:37:55,542
发现他对天葬背后的理念深信不疑

560
00:37:58,122 --> 00:38:00,658
他说这种传统的葬礼仪式

561
00:38:00,658 --> 00:38:03,194
是直接源于印度的哲学

562
00:38:03,194 --> 00:38:06,364
他认为人是由四个成份组成

563
00:38:06,364 --> 00:38:08,933
土、火、风、水

564
00:38:08,933 --> 00:38:12,770
而天葬特别集中在风这个成份之上

565
00:38:12,770 --> 00:38:16,763
所以天葬又叫做风葬

566
00:38:21,212 --> 00:38:22,780
他说他们念诵经文

567
00:38:22,780 --> 00:38:25,917
会吸引兀鹰来到举行葬礼的地方

568
00:38:25,917 --> 00:38:28,252
这些鸟是神明的使者

569
00:38:28,252 --> 00:38:30,622
当它们吃死者的肉时

570
00:38:30,622 --> 00:38:34,615
死者便会得到灵气，变得神圣

571
00:38:36,928 --> 00:38:39,964
这种天葬可以净化死者的肉体

572
00:38:39,964 --> 00:38:42,667
就算它是叛贼、盗马贼

573
00:38:42,667 --> 00:38:44,135
甚至杀人犯

574
00:38:44,135 --> 00:38:45,870
经过天葬这个仪式

575
00:38:45,870 --> 00:38:49,863
他们一样有资格登上极乐

576
00:38:53,211 --> 00:38:57,204
兀鹰再次展翅翱翔

577
00:39:04,889 --> 00:39:08,882
僧侣以号角声送别死者的亡魂

578
00:39:13,631 --> 00:39:16,701
用人骨做成的短号角称为Gandan

579
00:39:16,701 --> 00:39:20,694
长号角就叫Ragdown

580
00:40:02,714 --> 00:40:05,149
由唐克再沿黄河下游而行

581
00:40:05,149 --> 00:40:09,142
探索队遇到一个比较开心的活动

582
00:40:09,821 --> 00:40:12,390
这里的西藏人马术非常了得

583
00:40:12,390 --> 00:40:15,126
今天他们一群人聚在一起赛马

584
00:40:15,126 --> 00:40:18,196
探索队早前已经跟他们碰过头

585
00:40:18,196 --> 00:40:20,431
但是现在才首次停下来

586
00:40:20,431 --> 00:40:24,424
研究这个活动

587
00:40:28,239 --> 00:40:30,775
有差不多八百至九百人聚在这里

588
00:40:30,775 --> 00:40:34,768
参加一连几天的活动

589
00:40:46,190 --> 00:40:47,759
小朋友和大人一样

590
00:40:47,759 --> 00:40:49,127
都可以趁着这个机会

591
00:40:49,127 --> 00:40:51,896
在忙碌的生活之中透透气

592
00:40:51,896 --> 00:40:54,232
不过这个不纯粹是游戏

593
00:40:54,232 --> 00:40:56,434
它同时也是一个宗教节日

594
00:40:56,434 --> 00:41:00,427
祈求大地继续看顾他们

595
00:41:02,940 --> 00:41:04,275
比赛开始之前

596
00:41:04,275 --> 00:41:08,268
他们首先要举行一个祭天仪式

597
00:41:14,185 --> 00:41:18,178
他们首先烧一大堆黑麦

598
00:41:19,957 --> 00:41:23,528
接着把橡树树枝蘸在牦牛奶中

599
00:41:23,528 --> 00:41:25,496
然后洒进火堆

600
00:41:25,496 --> 00:41:27,365
这样做是要驱走邪灵

601
00:41:27,365 --> 00:41:31,358
叫善良的灵体留意他们

602
00:41:43,481 --> 00:41:47,474
叫喊声通知他们赛马将要开始

603
00:41:49,187 --> 00:41:50,454
这个比赛很激烈

604
00:41:50,454 --> 00:41:53,124
观众向四周抛小纸符

605
00:41:53,124 --> 00:41:57,117
为马匹和骑师祈福

606
00:41:59,163 --> 00:42:01,299
西藏人连玩乐也非常认真

607
00:42:01,299 --> 00:42:02,867
训练马匹胜出比赛

608
00:42:02,867 --> 00:42:06,860
对他们来说是一种荣誉

609
00:42:25,456 --> 00:42:26,958
很多西藏小朋友

610
00:42:26,958 --> 00:42:29,126
未学走路先学骑马

611
00:42:29,126 --> 00:42:32,363
他们大部份时间都在马鞍上度过

612
00:42:32,363 --> 00:42:36,356
不是策马放牧，就是骑着马到处跑

613
00:42:42,840 --> 00:42:44,475
骑师都是年轻男孩

614
00:42:44,475 --> 00:42:46,244
有些只有五、六岁

615
00:42:46,244 --> 00:42:47,478
由于体重要轻

616
00:42:47,478 --> 00:42:50,448
所以最大的也不过是十二、三岁

617
00:42:50,448 --> 00:42:51,883
只要嬴出比赛

618
00:42:51,883 --> 00:42:55,453
就会成为英雄，受人仰慕

619
00:42:55,453 --> 00:42:56,387
比赛开始了

620
00:42:56,387 --> 00:43:00,380
可能跟马会的比赛规则有点不同

621
00:43:05,930 --> 00:43:09,166
他们顺着黄河流动的方向策马比赛

622
00:43:09,166 --> 00:43:13,159
以免干扰大自然既有的和谐

623
00:43:17,308 --> 00:43:20,878
西藏人很强调要与大自然和平共处

624
00:43:20,878 --> 00:43:23,180
他们与大地互相紧扣

625
00:43:23,180 --> 00:43:27,173
这个想法可以理解

626
00:43:33,925 --> 00:43:36,928
这个为大地举行的节庆历时三天

627
00:43:36,928 --> 00:43:39,163
其它活动包括余兴节目

628
00:43:39,163 --> 00:43:41,098
以及户外的戏剧表演

629
00:43:41,098 --> 00:43:43,901
但是最受欢迎的始终是赛马

630
00:43:43,901 --> 00:43:46,437
对观众来说，可以松弛一下

631
00:43:46,437 --> 00:43:47,505
对骑师来说

632
00:43:47,505 --> 00:43:51,498
这个是扬名立万的黄金机会

633
00:43:57,949 --> 00:44:01,185
探索队在唐克和玛曲稍作停留之后

634
00:44:01,185 --> 00:44:03,287
他们再次沿黄河而下

635
00:44:03,287 --> 00:44:04,689
坐羊皮筏渡河

636
00:44:04,689 --> 00:44:06,357
有了上次的经验

637
00:44:06,357 --> 00:44:07,725
部份探索队成员

638
00:44:07,725 --> 00:44:11,462
觉得应该穿上救生衣

639
00:44:11,462 --> 00:44:15,132
沿唐克向下游走大约三百五十公里

640
00:44:15,132 --> 00:44:16,600
就会来到黄河上游

641
00:44:16,600 --> 00:44:18,569
最危险的一段水道

642
00:44:18,569 --> 00:44:22,562
一个叫野狐峡的陡峭山峡

643
00:44:43,527 --> 00:44:45,496
探索队坐在羊皮筏上

644
00:44:45,496 --> 00:44:47,431
在河中被抛来抛去

645
00:44:47,431 --> 00:44:48,666
两边都是峭壁

646
00:44:48,666 --> 00:44:51,168
被撞向山边和被抛进急流

647
00:44:51,168 --> 00:44:55,161
这两个可能性真令人浑身不自在

648
00:45:00,311 --> 00:45:02,513
河道越来越窄就更加恐，怖

649
00:45:02,513 --> 00:45:04,382
水流也越来越急

650
00:45:04,382 --> 00:45:07,651
他们似乎随时都会被抛进水中

651
00:45:07,651 --> 00:45:09,553
他们没可能对准航道

652
00:45:09,553 --> 00:45:11,122
因为湍急的水流

653
00:45:11,122 --> 00:45:13,591
在河道两边形成了漩涡

654
00:45:13,591 --> 00:45:16,160
不过今次坐羊皮筏的成员

655
00:45:16,160 --> 00:45:17,328
则比较幸运

656
00:45:17,328 --> 00:45:19,330
他们只是被抛来抛去

657
00:45:19,330 --> 00:45:20,664
弄得全身湿透

658
00:45:20,664 --> 00:45:24,201
但是坐在橡皮艇的成员更惨

659
00:45:24,201 --> 00:45:26,237
他们甚至被抛上半空

660
00:45:26,237 --> 00:45:30,241
再跌在艇上，真的心惊胆颤

661
00:45:30,241 --> 00:45:32,443
羊皮筏还把他们远远抛离

662
00:45:32,443 --> 00:45:33,744
大家一致同意

663
00:45:33,744 --> 00:45:37,214
西藏人坚持坐他们的传统羊皮筏

664
00:45:37,214 --> 00:45:41,207
的确有道理

665
00:46:10,181 --> 00:46:13,551
天空在狭窄的山峡间变成一条线

666
00:46:13,551 --> 00:46:17,544
有时更要抬起头才能看见