1
00:02:02,355 --> 00:02:03,617
宽阔的阿姆河


2
00:02:04,090 --> 00:02:05,785
首先流过帕米尔高原


3
00:02:06,226 --> 00:02:08,091
然后向北流过沙漠


4
00:02:08,828 --> 00:02:11,126
河流全长大约二千四百公里


5
00:02:12,098 --> 00:02:15,431
这条河曾是一个大帝国的边界所在


6
00:02:16,870 --> 00:02:19,896
古希腊人称阿姆河为奥克萨斯河


7
00:02:20,640 --> 00:02:21,265
他们相信


8
00:02:21,574 --> 00:02:23,405
河对岸是游牧民族


9
00:02:24,010 --> 00:02:25,910
游走的大草原国度


10
00:02:28,648 --> 00:02:29,706
阿拉伯人也知道


11
00:02:30,183 --> 00:02:33,311
在阿姆河与锡尔河之间有个大国


12
00:02:34,154 --> 00:02:37,021
他们称之为马法兰那哈尔


13
00:02:37,857 --> 00:02:39,916
意思是两条河之间


14
00:02:40,460 --> 00:02:43,520
他们对这片肥沃的土地有无限憧憬


15
00:02:44,297 --> 00:02:45,889
今日 阿姆河的河水


16
00:02:46,366 --> 00:02:48,163
灌溉着这个中亚地区


17
00:02:48,801 --> 00:02:50,769
最大的棉花种植场


18
00:02:51,171 --> 00:02:53,935
而那片称为马法兰那哈尔的土地


19
00:02:54,541 --> 00:02:55,473
现今大部份


20
00:02:55,942 --> 00:02:58,433
位于乌兹别克共和国境内


21
00:03:08,288 --> 00:03:10,222
这是阿法拉西亚遗址


22
00:03:10,890 --> 00:03:13,859
是马法兰那哈尔最古老的遗迹


23
00:03:14,494 --> 00:03:18,021
撒马尔罕的城墙曾经伸展到这里


24
00:03:20,567 --> 00:03:22,762
唐代著名佛教僧侣玄奘


25
00:03:23,369 --> 00:03:24,893
前往天竺取经时


26
00:03:25,405 --> 00:03:27,339
曾经路过撒马尔罕


27
00:03:28,174 --> 00:03:29,368
根据玄奘的记载


28
00:03:29,842 --> 00:03:31,707
撒马尔罕土地肥沃


29
00:03:32,212 --> 00:03:34,407
树木参天 花果处处


30
00:03:35,081 --> 00:03:36,981
而且气候温暖宜人


31
00:03:37,450 --> 00:03:39,008
是西域的心脏地带


32
00:03:40,220 --> 00:03:42,085
玄奘指的西域心脏地带


33
00:03:42,555 --> 00:03:45,149
如今只剩下一片颓垣败瓦


34
00:03:46,459 --> 00:03:47,892
今天的撒马尔罕市


35
00:03:48,361 --> 00:03:50,488
位于古迹以南的地方


36
00:03:51,264 --> 00:03:53,494
撒马尔罕经历的大起大跌


37
00:03:54,167 --> 00:03:55,930
在历史中甚为少见


38
00:03:56,603 --> 00:03:59,572
它两度被外国入侵 导致城廓破落


39
00:04:00,573 --> 00:04:02,541
第一次是耶稣出生之前


40
00:04:03,209 --> 00:04:05,109
被阿历山大大帝攻打


41
00:04:05,845 --> 00:04:07,437
第二次是十三世纪


42
00:04:07,947 --> 00:04:11,610
蒙古军事强人成吉思汗领兵入侵


43
00:04:12,452 --> 00:04:15,319
到了十四世纪 撒马尔罕再次兴盛


44
00:04:16,189 --> 00:04:19,522
这次要归功于大草原皇帝帖木儿


45
00:04:20,627 --> 00:04:23,221
帖木儿帝国定都撒马尔罕之后


46
00:04:24,063 --> 00:04:26,429
这里才真正踏入全盛期


47
00:05:01,434 --> 00:05:03,163
历史上有一句名言说


48
00:05:03,803 --> 00:05:05,634
成吉思汗破坏的地方


49
00:05:06,105 --> 00:05:07,834
由帖木儿重建


50
00:05:12,445 --> 00:05:14,709
摄制队在五月到达撒马尔罕


51
00:05:15,448 --> 00:05:17,473
中亚刚刚踏入夏天


52
00:05:22,088 --> 00:05:23,146
马戏团的鼓声


53
00:05:23,456 --> 00:05:26,152
仿佛能够反映和暖季节来临的时刻


54
00:05:26,993 --> 00:05:28,290
居民心中的喜悦


55
00:05:29,329 --> 00:05:32,059
这个马戏团流浪四方 去各地表演


56
00:05:32,965 --> 00:05:33,693
夏季一到


57
00:05:34,000 --> 00:05:36,400
他们又再踏足撒马尔罕的土地


58
00:06:01,194 --> 00:06:04,129
今天的撒马尔罕大约有五十万人口


59
00:06:04,997 --> 00:06:07,830
这里的集市 规模是全中亚最大的


60
00:06:08,801 --> 00:06:10,393
每天清早六点钟开市


61
00:06:10,970 --> 00:06:12,835
全日有二万人来购物


62
00:06:19,445 --> 00:06:22,881
好像榄球大的蜜瓜 只卖四十戈比


63
00:06:23,983 --> 00:06:25,541
当地人说 大热天时


64
00:06:26,052 --> 00:06:28,850
没什么比吃一个大蜜瓜更加消暑


65
00:06:48,341 --> 00:06:49,569
在集市出售的食品


66
00:06:50,042 --> 00:06:52,909
主要出产自市外的集体农庄


67
00:06:54,046 --> 00:06:55,980
集市的货品五花八门


68
00:06:56,582 --> 00:06:58,607
人种亦不胜枚举


69
00:06:59,318 --> 00:07:02,287
撒马尔罕居民来自五十个不同种族


70
00:07:23,209 --> 00:07:25,439
这个女人属于乌兹别克族


71
00:07:29,882 --> 00:07:31,543
这个是塔吉克族人


72
00:07:37,156 --> 00:07:38,817
这个女人来自韩国


73
00:08:09,155 --> 00:08:10,053
一些热情的居民


74
00:08:10,356 --> 00:08:12,517
请摄制队品尝当地的茶


75
00:08:15,228 --> 00:08:18,322
这个茶杯画上乌兹别克传统的图案


76
00:08:30,309 --> 00:08:31,776
帖木儿在一三七零年


77
00:08:32,211 --> 00:08:34,975
选定撒马尔罕为帝国首都


78
00:08:35,615 --> 00:08:37,879
这个城市深得大帝欢心


79
00:08:38,518 --> 00:08:39,143
每次出征


80
00:08:39,452 --> 00:08:42,114
他都会从外地带各种工匠和手艺师


81
00:08:42,955 --> 00:08:44,422
回国生活、工作


82
00:08:45,258 --> 00:08:48,091
一幢幢美轮美奂的建筑物相继落成


83
00:08:48,861 --> 00:08:51,386
为撒马尔罕带来灿烂的文化


84
00:08:52,164 --> 00:08:52,994
在全盛时期


85
00:08:53,332 --> 00:08:56,301
撒马尔罕有世界中心的美誉


86
00:09:03,309 --> 00:09:04,537
撒马尔罕市中心


87
00:09:05,011 --> 00:09:07,707
有三间建于十五至十七世纪期间的


88
00:09:08,314 --> 00:09:10,009
伊斯兰神学院


89
00:09:10,583 --> 00:09:13,347
它们座落的地区叫雷吉斯坦


90
00:09:23,229 --> 00:09:24,321
伊斯兰教严禁


91
00:09:24,664 --> 00:09:26,962
建筑物以偶像作装饰品


92
00:09:27,600 --> 00:09:28,931
但是这座建筑物的大门


93
00:09:29,368 --> 00:09:32,428
左右两边都画有人和兽的壁画


94
00:09:33,306 --> 00:09:35,900
这头狮子是撒马尔罕的象征


95
00:09:45,818 --> 00:09:48,651
帖木儿在位期间以撒马尔罕做基地


96
00:09:49,255 --> 00:09:51,746
展开一轮又一轮的征讨大计


97
00:09:52,825 --> 00:09:55,020
帖木儿帝国幅员广阔


98
00:09:55,494 --> 00:09:56,085
东面


99
00:09:56,429 --> 00:09:59,091
由中国和前苏联南部的大草原起


100
00:09:59,966 --> 00:10:03,561
军队向西扩张至波斯都城伊斯法罕


101
00:10:04,437 --> 00:10:06,428
巴格达和大马士革


102
00:10:07,540 --> 00:10:09,030
帖木儿大军又在如今


103
00:10:09,508 --> 00:10:11,499
土耳其安卡拉的位置


104
00:10:12,111 --> 00:10:14,909
打败历史悠久的鄂图曼帝国


105
00:10:16,115 --> 00:10:17,776
帖木儿又挥军南征


106
00:10:18,284 --> 00:10:21,082
占领了阿富汗和印度的部份土地


107
00:10:21,921 --> 00:10:23,650
相传帖木儿一直梦想


108
00:10:24,123 --> 00:10:26,318
建立一个以撒马尔罕为中心的


109
00:10:26,993 --> 00:10:29,655
伊斯兰大帝国 统治全球


110
00:10:30,262 --> 00:10:31,559
他向各国商旅保证


111
00:10:32,064 --> 00:10:33,656
可以自由进出帝国


112
00:10:34,200 --> 00:10:35,258
并将帝国各地


113
00:10:35,534 --> 00:10:37,195
最出色的学者和艺术家


114
00:10:37,870 --> 00:10:39,667
迁移到撒马尔罕


115
00:11:34,326 --> 00:11:36,055
在帖木儿的悉心经营下


116
00:11:36,529 --> 00:11:39,123
撒马尔罕成为一个国际都会


117
00:11:39,932 --> 00:11:42,924
经常有各国使节和商人自由进出


118
00:11:43,602 --> 00:11:45,433
西班牙人卡拉维霍说


119
00:11:46,038 --> 00:11:48,199
他目睹中国和西班牙使节


120
00:11:48,808 --> 00:11:51,641
因为争着坐在帖木儿旁边而口角


121
00:11:52,378 --> 00:11:54,369
卡拉维霍对帖木儿的起居


122
00:11:54,980 --> 00:11:56,379
有以下的描述


123
00:11:57,116 --> 00:11:59,676
每晚帖木儿都召集数百臣民


124
00:12:00,319 --> 00:12:02,651
欢欣作乐 通宵达旦


125
00:12:03,289 --> 00:12:05,257
不论男女都开怀豪饮


126
00:12:05,891 --> 00:12:08,325
羊肉马肉多得吃不完


127
00:12:09,095 --> 00:12:10,995
虽然帖木儿建造了皇宫


128
00:12:11,464 --> 00:12:13,329
但是他喜欢住帐篷


129
00:12:13,933 --> 00:12:16,561
他的帐篷周围有数千个帐篷


130
00:12:17,203 --> 00:12:19,330
征战时 一声令下


131
00:12:19,972 --> 00:12:21,803
所有帐篷就一齐收起


132
00:12:22,241 --> 00:12:23,674
马上可以起程


133
00:12:24,510 --> 00:12:26,341
这个就是卡拉维霍笔下的


134
00:12:26,979 --> 00:12:29,140
大草原皇帝帖木儿


135
00:12:36,589 --> 00:12:38,614
在古尔埃米尔气派豪华的


136
00:12:39,291 --> 00:12:43,417
大圆顶之下是
帖木儿大帝的长眠之地

137
00:12:44,096 --> 00:12:46,894
这座陵墓是帖木儿驾崩前一年落成


138
00:12:47,800 --> 00:12:48,892
陵墓落成之后


139
00:12:49,201 --> 00:12:52,534
帖木儿嫌大圆顶太矮 下令重建


140
00:12:59,345 --> 00:13:01,677
摄制队想参观帖木儿的陵墓


141
00:13:02,348 --> 00:13:04,282
乌兹别克共和国科学院的


142
00:13:04,950 --> 00:13:06,281
阿舒卡洛夫博士


143
00:13:06,585 --> 00:13:08,143
同意带他们进去


144
00:13:10,356 --> 00:13:13,291
帖木儿的棺木就摆放在大圆顶下面


145
00:13:14,293 --> 00:13:16,625
旁边是他家人的棺木


146
00:13:17,363 --> 00:13:18,421
摄制队很想知道


147
00:13:18,898 --> 00:13:21,423
石碑上刻的字句是什么意思


148
00:13:22,334 --> 00:13:24,700
根据纪录 石碑上应该写着


149
00:13:25,337 --> 00:13:28,397
帖木儿 成吉思汗的后代


150
00:13:29,508 --> 00:13:31,373
阿舒卡洛夫博士说


151
00:13:32,111 --> 00:13:34,011
碑上那一段阿拉伯文字


152
00:13:34,446 --> 00:13:35,879
是可兰经经文


153
00:13:36,549 --> 00:13:38,244
以及对帖木儿的介绍


154
00:13:47,526 --> 00:13:48,754
这段文字写着


155
00:13:49,261 --> 00:13:52,890
古尔埃米尔帖木儿 大帝国的君王


156
00:13:53,866 --> 00:13:57,063
广阔地域的伟大领袖 长眠于此


157
00:14:07,379 --> 00:14:08,937
阿舒卡洛夫博士断言


158
00:14:09,415 --> 00:14:10,541
石碑上没提及


159
00:14:11,016 --> 00:14:13,416
帖木儿跟成吉思汗的关系


160
00:14:14,286 --> 00:14:15,617
接着 他带大家参观


161
00:14:16,055 --> 00:14:17,784
帖木儿真正的棺木


162
00:14:18,357 --> 00:14:19,949
因为帖木儿并非葬在


163
00:14:20,426 --> 00:14:22,826
刚才参观的棺木里面


164
00:14:23,462 --> 00:14:24,429
博士带摄制队


165
00:14:24,930 --> 00:14:27,728
到位于第一副棺木下面的地下室


166
00:14:28,534 --> 00:14:30,195
依照伊斯兰教的信仰


167
00:14:30,836 --> 00:14:33,327
一个人的真棺木非常神圣


168
00:14:33,973 --> 00:14:35,941
绝对不能公开展览


169
00:15:01,267 --> 00:15:02,598
在大光灯照射下


170
00:15:03,035 --> 00:15:04,798
可以看到一个石棺


171
00:15:05,404 --> 00:15:07,872
这副才是帖木儿的棺木


172
00:15:16,148 --> 00:15:18,912
帖木儿死后至今五百七十年期间


173
00:15:19,551 --> 00:15:21,849
这个石棺只打开过一次


174
00:15:25,858 --> 00:15:27,689
当时是一九四一年六月


175
00:15:28,160 --> 00:15:29,957
乌兹别克和苏联的科学家


176
00:15:30,396 --> 00:15:31,590
来到这个地下室


177
00:15:32,097 --> 00:15:34,156
拉开沉重的石棺盖


178
00:15:40,506 --> 00:15:42,838
石棺里面肯定是帖木儿


179
00:15:43,475 --> 00:15:45,272
他头部朝着麦加方向


180
00:15:45,878 --> 00:15:47,470
双手交叠胸前


181
00:15:47,947 --> 00:15:50,074
身体由丝绸衣服遮盖


182
00:15:50,582 --> 00:15:52,914
很明显是一件华丽的寿衣


183
00:16:11,437 --> 00:16:13,098
当年负责开棺研究的人


184
00:16:13,572 --> 00:16:15,733
只有一个人依然在世


185
00:16:16,809 --> 00:16:18,504
摄制队拜访过他


186
00:16:19,178 --> 00:16:20,270
卡尤莫夫先生


187
00:16:20,612 --> 00:16:22,204
现在是乌兹别克共和国


188
00:16:22,815 --> 00:16:24,783
电影委员会会长


189
00:16:25,517 --> 00:16:27,417
他忆述当年开棺的情况


190
00:16:28,988 --> 00:16:30,512
当天是六月二十一日


191
00:16:30,990 --> 00:16:32,048
他们打开石棺


192
00:16:32,358 --> 00:16:34,053
看到帖木儿的骸骨


193
00:16:34,526 --> 00:16:36,721
在场所有人都非常紧张


194
00:16:37,463 --> 00:16:39,124
卡尤莫夫紧张得呆了


195
00:16:39,565 --> 00:16:41,328
站在那儿忘了照相


196
00:16:43,202 --> 00:16:46,433
据卡尤莫夫说 帖木儿身材魁梧


197
00:16:48,374 --> 00:16:50,205
帖木儿外号他米兰


198
00:16:50,843 --> 00:16:53,403
就是说他有一只脚是跛的


199
00:16:54,046 --> 00:16:55,741
科学家检查过骸骨之后


200
00:16:56,181 --> 00:16:58,809
证实其中一只脚比另一只短


201
00:17:02,254 --> 00:17:03,084
由头骨来看


202
00:17:03,389 --> 00:17:05,254
帖木儿的头应该很大


203
00:17:05,891 --> 00:17:06,482
奇怪的是


204
00:17:06,792 --> 00:17:09,522
头骨右边竟然还有一些毛发


205
00:17:10,229 --> 00:17:12,891
帖木儿有红褐色的头发和胡须


206
00:17:13,499 --> 00:17:14,625
英明神武


207
00:17:31,316 --> 00:17:33,477
研究队伍中有一名人类学家


208
00:17:34,153 --> 00:17:37,145
苏联科学院的格拉西莫夫先生


209
00:17:38,023 --> 00:17:39,354
他根据头骨形状


210
00:17:39,825 --> 00:17:42,453
重塑出帖木儿生前的面貌


211
00:17:47,966 --> 00:17:50,161
这个就是重塑结果


212
00:17:50,903 --> 00:17:51,835
是目前为止


213
00:17:52,104 --> 00:17:54,971
最多人接受的帖木儿大帝相貌


214
00:18:18,330 --> 00:18:19,627
一四零五年一月


215
00:18:20,065 --> 00:18:22,932
帖木儿带领二十万精锐骑兵出征


216
00:18:23,602 --> 00:18:26,127
这次征战的目的地是中国


217
00:18:27,005 --> 00:18:29,940
当时中国明朝由永乐帝当政


218
00:18:30,542 --> 00:18:32,134
大明威名远播


219
00:18:32,878 --> 00:18:34,869
帖木儿知道要拓展疆土


220
00:18:35,314 --> 00:18:37,111
建立一个强大的帝国


221
00:18:37,583 --> 00:18:40,143
迟早都要向中国全面开战


222
00:18:40,919 --> 00:18:43,080
所以他决定出兵


223
00:18:43,555 --> 00:18:44,681
但是命运之神


224
00:18:45,190 --> 00:18:48,353
令帖木儿终生无法踏足中国疆土


225
00:18:49,261 --> 00:18:50,250
他染上感冒


226
00:18:50,629 --> 00:18:52,961
并且在出征途中突然病逝


227
00:18:53,599 --> 00:18:55,123
享年六十九岁


228
00:18:55,634 --> 00:18:57,864
帖木儿驾崩的地方叫讹答喇


229
00:18:58,470 --> 00:19:01,064
位于今日哈萨克共和国境内


230
00:19:16,188 --> 00:19:17,985
长途跋涉 越过沙漠


231
00:19:18,457 --> 00:19:20,652
商旅在到达撒马尔罕之前


232
00:19:21,260 --> 00:19:24,093
首先看到的是这座巨型建筑物


233
00:19:24,930 --> 00:19:26,693
它是以帖木儿的王后命名的


234
00:19:27,199 --> 00:19:29,429
比比哈努清真寺


235
00:19:30,302 --> 00:19:33,032
清真寺入口处刻了两个词


236
00:19:33,872 --> 00:19:37,467
分别是出自可兰经的伟大及唯一


237
00:19:38,477 --> 00:19:42,208
据说在几公里外都能看到这两个词


238
00:19:43,549 --> 00:19:46,541
这座清真寺是全中亚最大的建筑物


239
00:19:47,352 --> 00:19:49,843
长一百四十米 宽一百米


240
00:19:50,489 --> 00:19:51,513
气派不凡


241
00:19:52,024 --> 00:19:54,993
充分显示出帖木儿帝国的强盛


242
00:19:56,328 --> 00:19:57,556
相传这座建筑物


243
00:19:58,063 --> 00:20:00,827
是年轻王后送给帖木儿的礼物


244
00:20:01,433 --> 00:20:04,425
欢迎他征战印度 凯旋而归


245
00:20:05,370 --> 00:20:08,134
回国之后 帖木儿嫌建筑物太小


246
00:20:08,974 --> 00:20:10,635
下令拆卸重建


247
00:20:11,109 --> 00:20:13,703
到他于出征中国途中病死


248
00:20:14,313 --> 00:20:16,008
建筑物仍未落成


249
00:20:16,515 --> 00:20:17,880
等到建筑物终于落成


250
00:20:18,350 --> 00:20:20,614
顶部的砖块又相继剥落


251
00:20:21,286 --> 00:20:23,811
当地人都称比比哈努清真寺


252
00:20:24,489 --> 00:20:26,821
是永远不能完成的建筑物


253
00:20:44,443 --> 00:20:46,308
比比哈努清真寺的重建工作


254
00:20:46,979 --> 00:20:48,139
如今尚未完成


255
00:21:07,299 --> 00:21:10,234
重建工作由三个撒马尔罕家庭负责


256
00:21:11,003 --> 00:21:12,766
每个家庭都用代代相传


257
00:21:13,238 --> 00:21:16,071
有数百年历史的传统方法施工


258
00:21:36,295 --> 00:21:38,320
阿沙道夫家族是全撒马尔罕


259
00:21:38,930 --> 00:21:41,057
手艺最灵巧的工匠


260
00:21:42,901 --> 00:21:45,699
乌玛阿沙道夫凭着精湛的建筑手艺


261
00:21:46,238 --> 00:21:47,967
每月赚取四百卢布


262
00:21:48,440 --> 00:21:51,034
是一般工人平均工资的两倍


263
00:21:52,477 --> 00:21:54,445
六十岁的乌玛是一家之主


264
00:21:55,113 --> 00:21:58,446
他带领九名家庭成员进行重建工作


265
00:21:59,318 --> 00:22:01,513
他们参与重建比比哈努清真寺


266
00:22:02,187 --> 00:22:03,449
已经有十一年


267
00:22:03,955 --> 00:22:06,150
乌玛阿沙道夫曾经获颁


268
00:22:06,591 --> 00:22:10,186
哈萨克共和国最高荣誉的艺术奖项


269
00:23:02,247 --> 00:23:04,715
比比哈努清真寺大圆顶的最高点


270
00:23:05,350 --> 00:23:07,181
离地足足三十七米


271
00:23:26,338 --> 00:23:28,738
在这么高的地方施工要很小心


272
00:23:38,483 --> 00:23:39,541
比比哈努清真寺


273
00:23:40,018 --> 00:23:42,077
究竟还要多久才能落成呢


274
00:23:42,888 --> 00:23:43,820
阿沙道夫说


275
00:23:44,156 --> 00:23:46,784
花十年才能完成小部份工程


276
00:23:47,392 --> 00:23:50,418
整座建筑物落成还要等二十年


277
00:23:51,229 --> 00:23:53,891
他怕有生之年都看不到清真寺落成


278
00:23:54,566 --> 00:23:56,295
但是他的儿子可以


279
00:24:10,248 --> 00:24:11,545
撒马尔罕的旧城区


280
00:24:12,017 --> 00:24:14,747
依然充满昔日绿洲城市的格局


281
00:24:15,487 --> 00:24:18,422
白色的矮城墙包围着一幢幢房屋


282
00:24:28,300 --> 00:24:30,234
屋前有一条小溪


283
00:24:30,836 --> 00:24:33,828
街道中央有棵枝叶茂盛的树


284
00:24:49,054 --> 00:24:52,285
旧城区令人有一种似曾相识的感觉


285
00:25:19,217 --> 00:25:21,549
当地人最喜欢在户外进餐


286
00:25:22,187 --> 00:25:24,246
认为这是人生一大乐事


287
00:25:24,956 --> 00:25:26,981
城里到处都有人坐在树荫下


288
00:25:27,492 --> 00:25:28,959
喝茶闲谈


289
00:25:32,397 --> 00:25:34,797
阿沙道夫邀请摄制队一齐吃饭


290
00:25:35,433 --> 00:25:37,367
尝试在户外进餐的风味


291
00:25:38,203 --> 00:25:40,763
他们摆好餐具 桌上摆满食物


292
00:25:49,314 --> 00:25:51,805
坐在阿沙道夫旁边的是他的孙女


293
00:25:52,484 --> 00:25:55,476
而另一边是他七十九岁的妈妈


294
00:26:08,300 --> 00:26:09,961
阿沙道夫太太准备做一道


295
00:26:10,402 --> 00:26:13,929
传统的撒马尔罕菜式--柏拉克


296
00:26:15,206 --> 00:26:16,969
柏拉克是一种炒饭


297
00:26:17,409 --> 00:26:19,172
专门用来接待贵宾


298
00:26:54,045 --> 00:26:55,307
阿沙道夫的二儿子


299
00:26:55,580 --> 00:26:58,481
在半年前娶了迪拉巴作妻子


300
00:27:08,126 --> 00:27:11,323
迪拉巴在房间里挂了很多基那克


301
00:27:12,130 --> 00:27:14,496
这是当地的民族服装


302
00:27:17,902 --> 00:27:19,267
根据乌兹别克的风俗


303
00:27:19,571 --> 00:27:22,768
新婚妇女要将民族服装挂出来一年


304
00:27:37,255 --> 00:27:39,883
中亚妇女的眼部化妆非常独特


305
00:27:40,525 --> 00:27:42,891
她们喜欢把眉毛画成一条线


306
00:27:50,235 --> 00:27:52,465
在乌兹别克 妇女要懂得刺绣


307
00:27:53,104 --> 00:27:54,969
才能算是贤良淑德


308
00:28:02,247 --> 00:28:05,512
撒马尔罕北面有一个伊斯兰教坟场


309
00:28:10,855 --> 00:28:13,722
谢赫静达墓穴群位于这座山上


310
00:28:14,392 --> 00:28:16,917
这里埋葬了多名撒马尔罕统治者


311
00:28:17,562 --> 00:28:21,054
包括帖木儿等多个皇帝及家属


312
00:28:22,100 --> 00:28:23,931
在当地伊斯兰教徒眼中


313
00:28:24,436 --> 00:28:25,733
这里非常神圣


314
00:28:26,171 --> 00:28:28,435
所以朝圣人士络绎不绝


315
00:28:58,236 --> 00:29:00,704
谢赫静达墓穴群有很多墓穴


316
00:29:01,339 --> 00:29:04,206
每个都铺上色彩斑斓的瓷瓦


317
00:29:05,110 --> 00:29:07,635
有蓝色、紫色和灰色


318
00:29:08,379 --> 00:29:10,279
墓穴就好像一个个珠宝箱


319
00:29:10,915 --> 00:29:12,143
点缀山头


320
00:29:25,497 --> 00:29:26,828
城中建筑物的圆顶


321
00:29:27,298 --> 00:29:29,266
都以撒马尔罕蓝色为主


322
00:29:29,968 --> 00:29:31,128
有人称这种蓝色


323
00:29:31,436 --> 00:29:33,700
是天空和海洋的颜色


324
00:29:34,305 --> 00:29:36,603
代表帖木儿大帝建立的文化


325
00:29:45,316 --> 00:29:47,250
日本小说家井上靖描述


326
00:29:47,852 --> 00:29:50,685
丝绸之路是一条饱经兴盛衰亡


327
00:29:51,322 --> 00:29:53,654
历尽动荡太平的道路


328
00:29:54,492 --> 00:29:57,620
这幅画记载了丝路一段血腥的历史


329
00:29:58,863 --> 00:30:00,125
一二二零年一月


330
00:30:00,465 --> 00:30:02,399
成吉思汗率领蒙古大军


331
00:30:03,001 --> 00:30:06,266
围攻撒马尔罕的阿法拉西亚城堡


332
00:30:10,975 --> 00:30:12,806
当地五万至七万名平民


333
00:30:13,444 --> 00:30:16,242
在城堡内负隅顽抗 背水一战


334
00:30:19,984 --> 00:30:21,884
撒马尔罕平民奋勇抗敌


335
00:30:22,387 --> 00:30:24,378
但是面对强大的蒙古大军


336
00:30:25,023 --> 00:30:26,388
他们寡不敌众


337
00:30:29,260 --> 00:30:31,023
一度散发光辉的撒马尔罕


338
00:30:31,462 --> 00:30:33,191
被蒙古军夷为平地


339
00:30:34,132 --> 00:30:35,497
城内发生大屠杀


340
00:30:35,967 --> 00:30:37,730
所有建筑物付诸一炬


341
00:30:47,879 --> 00:30:48,903
阿法拉西亚山


342
00:30:49,214 --> 00:30:50,943
位于今天撒马尔罕北面


343
00:30:51,416 --> 00:30:54,146
多年来一直作为放牧用途


344
00:30:55,086 --> 00:30:58,078
撒马尔罕古城在山下沉睡几百年


345
00:30:58,990 --> 00:31:02,118
这个古城曾被阿历山大大帝侵略


346
00:31:02,927 --> 00:31:05,452
也在商旅民族粟特族人的管治下


347
00:31:06,097 --> 00:31:07,257
繁华兴盛


348
00:31:07,632 --> 00:31:09,759
后来灭亡于成吉思汗之手


349
00:31:18,409 --> 00:31:21,503
古城遗迹的考古工作近年才开始


350
00:31:22,280 --> 00:31:24,009
乌兹别克共和国科学院


351
00:31:24,482 --> 00:31:26,074
在一九五零年代末期


352
00:31:26,551 --> 00:31:27,813
开始积极挖掘


353
00:31:28,386 --> 00:31:31,116
至今只掘出百分之一的遗迹


354
00:31:40,298 --> 00:31:42,232
撒马尔罕古城的挖掘工作


355
00:31:42,667 --> 00:31:44,658
由乌兹别克共和国科学院的


356
00:31:45,336 --> 00:31:47,429
阿舒卡洛夫教授负责


357
00:31:53,244 --> 00:31:55,735
山下出土了一幅七世纪的壁画


358
00:31:56,381 --> 00:31:58,212
轰动整个考古学界


359
00:32:15,166 --> 00:32:18,067
壁画的所在地以前可能是皇宫


360
00:32:18,836 --> 00:32:20,599
壁画描绘出撒马尔罕


361
00:32:21,039 --> 00:32:23,507
在粟特人统治下的繁荣景象


362
00:32:39,223 --> 00:32:41,885
画中骑着棕色单峰骆驼的男人


363
00:32:42,493 --> 00:32:44,085
可能是外国使节


364
00:32:44,562 --> 00:32:47,156
代表国家前来撒马尔罕进贡


365
00:32:57,108 --> 00:32:57,938
摄制队发现


366
00:32:58,242 --> 00:33:00,369
有几层泥土的颜色略微不同


367
00:33:08,052 --> 00:33:08,848
泥土不同颜色


368
00:33:09,153 --> 00:33:11,246
是因为这里曾经被火烧过


369
00:33:12,023 --> 00:33:14,753
当年蒙古大军攻打伊斯兰寺庙


370
00:33:15,393 --> 00:33:18,055
用火将寺庙里的人逼出来


371
00:33:23,368 --> 00:33:25,131
这层红色泥土骤眼看起来


372
00:33:25,603 --> 00:33:26,934
好像干了的血


373
00:33:27,972 --> 00:33:30,270
阿舒卡洛夫教授也有同感


374
00:33:30,908 --> 00:33:33,741
考古人员也在古城掘出很多人骨


375
00:33:34,512 --> 00:33:36,309
成吉思汗不但毁灭了


376
00:33:36,914 --> 00:33:39,644
撒马尔罕的阿法拉西亚城堡


377
00:33:45,356 --> 00:33:46,448
在中亚广泛地区


378
00:33:46,924 --> 00:33:48,118
有不少这类见证


379
00:33:48,426 --> 00:33:50,690
兴亡盛衰的古城遗址


380
00:34:16,254 --> 00:34:17,812
摄制队离开撒马尔罕


381
00:34:18,322 --> 00:34:20,654
取道大乌兹别克公路南行


382
00:34:21,292 --> 00:34:23,954
这条公路经过铁尔梅兹和阿富汗


383
00:34:24,562 --> 00:34:25,529
直达印度


384
00:34:26,164 --> 00:34:28,132
昔日 佛教以相反方向


385
00:34:28,599 --> 00:34:30,999
从印度传入中亚各地


386
00:34:34,572 --> 00:34:36,062
摄制队此行的目的地


387
00:34:36,541 --> 00:34:39,874
是帖木儿的出生地--科特查伊格尔


388
00:34:53,257 --> 00:34:55,384
这里位于撒马尔罕以南八十里


389
00:34:56,027 --> 00:34:58,393
可以望到远处的帕米尔高原


390
00:35:14,412 --> 00:35:16,710
这就是科特查伊格尔街


391
00:35:17,348 --> 00:35:19,111
是这个村子的主要街道


392
00:35:24,288 --> 00:35:26,756
参观过帖木儿大帝的各种建设之后


393
00:35:27,391 --> 00:35:29,291
摄制队很想看看他的家乡


394
00:35:29,927 --> 00:35:32,395
希望能对他的一生有较多认识


395
00:35:40,037 --> 00:35:42,267
所有男性村民都出来迎接摄制队


396
00:35:42,874 --> 00:35:44,205
场面相当热闹


397
00:35:44,642 --> 00:35:45,836
原来摄制队是第一批


398
00:35:46,277 --> 00:35:48,211
到访村落的外国人


399
00:35:49,046 --> 00:35:49,705
根据习俗


400
00:35:49,981 --> 00:35:51,915
村民用一种叫作馕的面包


401
00:35:52,383 --> 00:35:55,819
在上面撒些盐招待客人 以示欢迎


402
00:35:57,355 --> 00:35:59,619
面包和盐是村民重要的食物


403
00:36:00,291 --> 00:36:00,985
昔日的村民


404
00:36:01,325 --> 00:36:04,385
可能也是用这种方式欢迎丝路旅客


405
00:36:48,105 --> 00:36:50,369
村中的少女跳舞欢迎摄制队


406
00:36:51,075 --> 00:36:54,044
这种舞是科特查伊格尔村特有的


407
00:36:55,046 --> 00:36:57,014
少女一只手用石头敲碟


408
00:36:57,548 --> 00:36:59,038
模仿化妆的动作


409
00:36:59,917 --> 00:37:00,576
跳这种舞


410
00:37:00,885 --> 00:37:03,649
也是欢迎来自远方贵宾的方式


411
00:37:22,173 --> 00:37:23,140
美中不足的是


412
00:37:23,407 --> 00:37:24,931
在帖木儿出生的乡村


413
00:37:25,576 --> 00:37:26,941
看不到帖木儿


414
00:37:39,123 --> 00:37:40,750
但是有人跟摄制队讲


415
00:37:41,225 --> 00:37:43,159
帖木儿还在村子里面


416
00:38:06,350 --> 00:38:08,409
这位是帖木儿拿撒洛夫


417
00:38:09,053 --> 00:38:10,680
他是一名中学教师


418
00:39:29,467 --> 00:39:30,764
这位中学教师帖木儿


419
00:39:31,235 --> 00:39:33,726
与古时的中亚大帝帖木儿不同


420
00:39:34,472 --> 00:39:36,133
他没有征服世界的野心


421
00:39:36,674 --> 00:39:38,767
他爱好和平 喜欢小朋友


422
00:39:39,510 --> 00:39:41,603
与妻子生了八个子女


423
00:39:50,121 --> 00:39:52,612
帖木儿在科特查伊格尔附近


424
00:39:53,290 --> 00:39:55,315
留下了强大帝国的印记


425
00:39:56,260 --> 00:39:57,693
艾克沙拉尔宫


426
00:39:58,396 --> 00:40:00,455
由于皇宫接近他儿时的居所


427
00:40:01,132 --> 00:40:02,895
所以他每次出征回国


428
00:40:03,334 --> 00:40:05,199
都会来这座宫殿休息


429
00:40:09,974 --> 00:40:13,273
艾格沙拉尔宫的
参天巨柱直指天际

430
00:40:14,145 --> 00:40:16,238
上面刻有可兰经经文


431
00:40:25,356 --> 00:40:28,257
每个城门上都刻有文字 意思是


432
00:40:29,093 --> 00:40:31,186
如果有任何人怀疑我们的力量


433
00:40:31,662 --> 00:40:33,562
就请看看我们的建设


434
00:40:47,211 --> 00:40:48,803
帖木儿驾崩一百年之后


435
00:40:49,280 --> 00:40:52,010
以他命名的大帝国也灭亡了


436
00:40:52,850 --> 00:40:55,717
代之而起的统治者叫沙班尼


437
00:40:56,320 --> 00:40:57,309
他将王国首都


438
00:40:57,588 --> 00:41:00,489
从撒马尔罕迁至布哈拉


439
00:41:10,367 --> 00:41:12,631
摄制队正朝古代商旅城市


440
00:41:13,270 --> 00:41:14,601
布哈拉进发


441
00:41:15,406 --> 00:41:17,840
布哈拉、撒马尔罕和希瓦


442
00:41:18,476 --> 00:41:20,000
这三个沙漠绿洲


443
00:41:20,478 --> 00:41:22,605
有中亚三颗明珠之称


444
00:41:45,336 --> 00:41:48,032
古时 布拉哈由重重城墙包围


445
00:41:48,839 --> 00:41:51,103
每当入夜 就会重门深锁


446
00:41:51,909 --> 00:41:53,376
入夜之后到达的商旅


447
00:41:53,811 --> 00:41:55,108
要在城外过夜


448
00:41:55,412 --> 00:41:56,436
等到第二天早上


449
00:41:56,947 --> 00:41:58,437
他们就一涌而入


450
00:41:58,883 --> 00:42:01,681
赶到全中亚规模最大的集市做买卖


451
00:42:18,202 --> 00:42:19,499
中亚各个城市中


452
00:42:20,004 --> 00:42:22,598
以布哈拉的中世纪色彩最浓厚


453
00:42:23,374 --> 00:42:25,899
一幢幢土制平房排列整齐


454
00:42:26,510 --> 00:42:28,671
横街窄巷 错综复杂


455
00:42:29,313 --> 00:42:30,746
形成一个迷宫


456
00:42:48,399 --> 00:42:50,993
这座四十八米高的卡拉扬尖塔


457
00:42:51,802 --> 00:42:53,861
屹立于布哈拉市中心


458
00:42:54,338 --> 00:42:57,136
附近是伊斯兰神学院以及寺庙


459
00:42:58,108 --> 00:43:00,702
市中心这一区称为帕里米拿


460
00:43:01,345 --> 00:43:03,540
意思是尖塔的根基


461
00:43:04,214 --> 00:43:05,841
极受朝圣者欢迎


462
00:43:15,159 --> 00:43:16,126
当地的穆斯林


463
00:43:16,393 --> 00:43:18,588
称布哈拉为中亚的麦加


464
00:43:19,263 --> 00:43:21,060
朝圣者络绎不绝


465
00:43:38,182 --> 00:43:39,672
这个小贩在街边卖一种


466
00:43:40,117 --> 00:43:41,778
叫克凡斯的饮品


467
00:43:42,519 --> 00:43:45,613
克凡斯是用黑面包和苹果酿制而成


468
00:43:46,323 --> 00:43:49,383
不含酒精 入口清甜 味道不错


469
00:44:28,165 --> 00:44:31,726
这幢建筑物的内部和外观截然不同


470
00:44:32,636 --> 00:44:35,332
米利阿拉伯神学院是前苏联境内


471
00:44:36,140 --> 00:44:38,938
唯一一间中级伊斯兰神学院


472
00:45:00,264 --> 00:45:01,026
这间神学院


473
00:45:01,331 --> 00:45:03,799
只收十八岁或以上的男生


474
00:45:04,601 --> 00:45:06,000
课程长达七年


475
00:45:06,603 --> 00:45:08,230
科目包括阿拉伯文


476
00:45:08,906 --> 00:45:10,897
可兰经研究和历史


477
00:45:11,875 --> 00:45:14,343
这间神学院现在有九十名学生


478
00:45:15,112 --> 00:45:18,172
据说学生数字每年都有轻微增长


479
00:45:18,949 --> 00:45:20,712
来自前苏联各地的神学生


480
00:45:21,218 --> 00:45:24,654
齐集这里 一齐学习 同吃同住


481
00:45:25,489 --> 00:45:27,582
神学生毕业之后就是伊玛目


482
00:45:28,225 --> 00:45:29,692
就是寺庙首领


483
00:45:30,260 --> 00:45:32,228
他们会被派往国内各个地区


484
00:45:32,896 --> 00:45:35,023
甚至中东各个伊斯兰教国家


485
00:45:35,466 --> 00:45:36,524
担任要职


486
00:47:54,104 --> 00:47:56,572
两大古都撒马尔罕和布哈拉


487
00:47:57,241 --> 00:48:00,210
见证了中亚既悠长又动荡的历史