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Africa.

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The heart of the world.

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An empire of space and light.

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Stand on its southern shores and
picture the land rolling north.

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One continent.

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So many worlds.

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Africa.

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From the deep mystery of the forests...

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...to the improbable vastness of deserts.

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...folding into in the shadow of giants...

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mountains.

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A continent of waterways.

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Lakes as big as seas...

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...the world's longest rivers.

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And the immense Savannah.

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...the place from which our ancestors
walked out across the earth.

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Africa.

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A continent from which so much life
has sprung.

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Wild Africa.

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But the continent we see today

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is the culmination of
100 million years of change,

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since Africa broke free
from the ancient world.

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And today, the same violent forces

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which shaped the continent
are still at work,

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lifting great towers of rock high
into the African sky.

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This is the story of
Africa's mighty mountains...

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and the wildlife rising
to meet their challenge.

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Throughout Africa's history,

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massive forces deep
within the earth have torn,

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crushed and buckled the landscape.

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The greatest scar of all
is worn by Ethiopia,

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where molten lava - seeping to
the surface over 70 million years

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has built a huge dome of rock
a thousand kilometres wide

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the Roof of Africa.

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Today the fires have gone out
in the Ethiopian highlands.

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Sun and rain - wind and ice
now rip at their volcanic carcass.

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Four kilometres up,
welcome to cold Africa.

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No ordinary baboons, these are geladas,
unique to Ethiopia.

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They conquered these highlands
from the surrounding plains

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a few million years ago...

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plenty of time to acclimatise.

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Protected from the cold in thick,

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furry capes,
geladas are rugged mountaineers,

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roaming the moorlands in bands of up
to 800 individuals.

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Most baboons enjoy a rich diet of
plants and meat,

46
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but up here geladas have to get
by on just mountain grass...

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...a lot of mountain grass.

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Grass is so poor in calories geladas
must spend most of the day grazing...

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shuffling along
on their bottoms to keep warm.

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Geladas are very peaceful monkeys.

51
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In the cold it's a waste of
valuable energy to quarrel.

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So instead they've developed
more subtle ways to signal their mood.

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In gelada society,

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disputes are usually settled
by just pulling a face.

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But each band of Geladas has up
to 30 dominant males,

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and tensions do sometimes boil over.

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In the last million years,

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Ethiopia has been much colder
than it is today.

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Glaciers once crowned these highlands...

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carving the brittle rock
into a landscape of jagged spires...

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some falling 2 Kilometres to the base.

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Geladas are fearless rock-climbers.

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Each evening they move to the steepest
cliffs for safety from predators,

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like leopards.

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While Gelada baboons have always lived in
this region of Africa,

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it's only with time that they've been
able to move up in the world.

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But Ethiopia hides many
other unusual mountaineers...

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and some have colonised these peaks
from much further afield.

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Walia ibex invaded Africa
from Europe during recent Ice Ages,

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when the two continents were joined
by a vast tundra.

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Today these rare goats survive only
on the remotest pinnacles.

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In the breeding season the cliffs echo

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to the sound of
males contesting dominance.

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These fights can be brutal...

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and occasionally to the death.

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Ethiopian thick-billed ravens are quick
to take advantage.

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All that commotion doesn't go unnoticed.

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The Lammergeyer - or bearded vulture.

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A massive bird...

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soaring the mountain updrafts
on wings two metres across.

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Despite their size,
Lammergeyers don't rush in to feed.

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They bide their time,
letting others do the messy work.

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Only when the meal is almost over,
do they make their move.

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Lammergeyer literally means
"lamb-catcher",

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but these formidable birds
aren't that interested in meat.

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What they prefer, are bones...

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Bones as heavy as the bird itself
are hauled off with ease.

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The Lammergeyer knows precisely what to do
with them...

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bones away!

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With the bone shattered,
the nutritious marrow is exposed.

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Chunks as big as your fist are dissolved

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in stomach juices
as strong as an acid bath.

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Bone-breaking takes skill,

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and young birds need plenty of
target practice.

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Many bones fall wide of the mark...

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...others lack the height.

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It takes a full seven years
for a Lammergeyer to get it right.

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Lammergeyers have colonised
most of Africa's mountains

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wherever they find enough food to eat

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and enough wind to
lift their massive frames.

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Here in Ethiopia, conditions are perfect.

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On the southern edge of these highlands,

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towering spires give way
to grassy moorlands

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home to the rarest of
all African predators...

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Ethiopian wolves.

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Like their European ancestors,

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Ethiopian wolves patrol vast territories
and live in tight family groups.

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But otherwise they're quite different.

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Small and fine-featured,

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they've given up
chasing large animals in packs

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there isn't the prey here to do that.

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Instead they hunt alone.

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These grassy moorlands teem with
more than a dozen types of rodent.

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Ethiopian wolves have evolved to
become specialist rat-catchers.

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Nimble legs,

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sensitive ears and a narrow muzzle
are the tools of their trade.

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Small grass rats make up
most of the wolves' diet.

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But on these mountain plateaux
there's a far greater prize...

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a rodent ten times bigger...
ten times more nervous.

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The giant mole rat.

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Mole rats are afraid
to leave their burrows.

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Like periscopes,
they scan for danger as they feed.

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...sometimes with the help of
watchful hill chats,

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gathering insects from
around the rats' dung piles.

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Even so, mole rats are up
against an expert.

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The alarm goes off
but the wolf is patient.

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There's no shortage of food up here

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'rat infested' hardly
begins to describe a place

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where there are two tonnes of rats
to each square kilometre.

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At the den, the pups eagerly anticipate
the returning adults.

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The hunters are endlessly mobbed
until they cough up the goods.

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This might seem like wolf paradise,

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but these specialised mountain
predators face an uncertain future.

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The cold, alpine tundra in
which their ancestors evolved

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and on which
these wolves now entirely depend

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is ever-so-slowly vanishing.

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The African climate is getting warmer...

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the Ethiopian highlands
steadily wearing away...

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The remaining 1000 wolves are
truly marooned on the Roof of Africa.

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Every mountain range in Africa
is its own unique and isolated world...

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none more so than the Atlas mountains
of Morocco,

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formed as North Africa collided
with Europe 65 million years ago...

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Flanked on one side
by the Mediterranean...

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and on the other by the vast Sahara...

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this crumpled range is one of
the most unusual on the continent.

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Shrouded in ancient forest,
and cloaked in a veil of snow,

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the Atlas mountains look more
like the European Alps.

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But living among the giant cedars
are very African survivors.

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...Barbary macaques.

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This far north in Africa winter
can be severe.

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But Barbary macaques are
remarkably tough animals...

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...their ancestors were the only monkeys

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able to cross the mighty Sahara
to reach these mountains.

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The secret of their success is diet.

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Barbary macaques get by
on the slimmest pickings.

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In winter,
when deep snow covers the ground,

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they stay in the treetops,

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relying on lichens, leaves and bark.

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At the first sign of spring,

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the macaques leave the canopy

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to search the forest floor
for fresh herbs and shoots.

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With their thick, warm coats,

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these snow monkeys are built
for heavy weather.

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Only half as high as
the Ethiopian highlands,

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the Atlas mountains are
generally speaking

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an easier place to live.

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But the macaques' meagre diet has imposed
its ownextraordinary discipline.

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Like geladas,
they can't waste energy squabbling,

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so the 30 or so members
in each troop invest

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a lot of time in their relationships.

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To protect the troop,
male macaques need to be united.

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So instead of fighting they'll
often pass an infant between them...

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rather like a football...
until they all calm down.

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The youngsters get an earful
from both sides...

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but nobody gets hurt.

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Barbary macaques are extremely resilient.

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They've survived here
for at least 6 million years,

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making the best of changing opportunities

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as the North African climate
has repeatedly swung

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from hot to cold, wet to dry...

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and back again.

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But at the far end of the continent...

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down among the highlands of south Africa

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wildlife has been blessed
with a much more stable past.

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The Cape highlands are
Africa's oldest mountains...

186
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built out of the most solid rock
380 million years ago...

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long before the Africa
we know was even born.

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For tens of millions of years the climate
here has remained steady,

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ruled by the oceans and their currents.

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Year on year,
cold winters follow dry summers.

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This unique climate nurtures
a dazzling variety of plants.

192
00:26:37,612 --> 00:26:40,445
7000 species of heathers, sedges,

193
00:26:40,615 --> 00:26:44,051
brushes and proteas make up the "fynbos"

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00:26:44,185 --> 00:26:47,643
the world's smallest,
but richest, plant kingdom.

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00:26:53,494 --> 00:26:57,590
Fynbos flowers come in all shapes,
smells and colours

196
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all designed to seduce their pollinators.

197
00:27:02,870 --> 00:27:05,668
These proteas hold
their nectar-rich blossoms high

198
00:27:05,806 --> 00:27:08,240
to attract Cape Sugarbirds.

199
00:27:11,045 --> 00:27:13,946
Other proteas lie on the ground
and smell of yeast...

200
00:27:14,081 --> 00:27:15,275
tempting for mice.

201
00:27:22,723 --> 00:27:24,748
This flower needs a bee to vibrate

202
00:27:24,892 --> 00:27:28,157
at just the right frequency
to release its pollen.

203
00:27:31,966 --> 00:27:35,060
And this one just explodes it
in the face of visitors.

204
00:27:41,142 --> 00:27:44,009
But the Disa orchid is
the craftiest of them all.

205
00:27:44,879 --> 00:27:47,279
As the mountain pride butterfly dips
for nectar

206
00:27:47,415 --> 00:27:51,181
the orchid glues pollen sacs straight
onto its belly.

207
00:28:05,466 --> 00:28:09,402
Life on the Cape has been blessed
with a unique mix of circumstance,

208
00:28:09,570 --> 00:28:14,030
isolation, solid foundations and a stable,
nurturing climate.

209
00:28:28,823 --> 00:28:31,053
But there's a twist in this tail.

210
00:28:31,192 --> 00:28:35,060
Come the end of winter,
the Cape undergoes a dramatic change.

211
00:28:35,663 --> 00:28:37,688
The cool, moist winds subside.

212
00:28:38,766 --> 00:28:41,234
The air becomes tinder dry...

213
00:28:43,671 --> 00:28:47,767
Every fifteen years or so,
the mountains erupt in flames.

214
00:29:10,564 --> 00:29:13,727
Summer fires are ignited by sparks
from rockfalls,

215
00:29:13,868 --> 00:29:16,530
by lightning or... controlled burns...

216
00:29:17,738 --> 00:29:19,535
It looks fearfully destructive

217
00:29:19,673 --> 00:29:23,006
but fire is actually essential
to the health of the fynbos.

218
00:29:24,011 --> 00:29:26,241
Fires clear away old vegetation,

219
00:29:26,380 --> 00:29:28,940
releasing important minerals to the soil.

220
00:29:30,418 --> 00:29:32,716
For proteas, the intense heat and smoke

221
00:29:32,853 --> 00:29:36,812
are also crucial catalysts
for the next generation.

222
00:29:39,393 --> 00:29:41,122
Within hours of the fire passing,

223
00:29:41,262 --> 00:29:43,890
million of seeds are released to the wind

224
00:29:44,031 --> 00:29:46,761
to await the next winter rains.

225
00:29:55,910 --> 00:29:58,003
The Cape highlands are an ancient range,

226
00:29:58,145 --> 00:30:00,545
but elsewhere on the continent fires
within the earth

227
00:30:00,681 --> 00:30:04,412
are thrusting new peaks towards
the African sky.

228
00:30:41,489 --> 00:30:46,017
The Maasai call it the "Mountain Of God"
OI Donyo Lengai.

229
00:30:47,761 --> 00:30:51,663
Nearly 3,000 metres tall,
it is a mountain in the making

230
00:30:51,799 --> 00:30:56,133
an active volcano which last erupted
only thirty-five years ago.

231
00:31:10,518 --> 00:31:14,181
"Lengai" is one of a chain of
volcanoes formed as lava pushed

232
00:31:14,321 --> 00:31:18,348
through the earth's surface along
the edge of the Great Rift Valley.

233
00:31:20,528 --> 00:31:22,223
Clearly visible from Space,

234
00:31:22,363 --> 00:31:25,594
this 6,000 kilometre trench stretches
all the way

235
00:31:25,733 --> 00:31:27,963
from Mozambique to the Lebanon.

236
00:31:30,538 --> 00:31:33,405
And bursting from the hot,
dry plains of Tanzania,

237
00:31:33,541 --> 00:31:36,476
is the monarch of all African mountains

238
00:31:39,113 --> 00:31:40,410
Kilimanjaro.

239
00:31:41,649 --> 00:31:43,776
It's a colossus of three volcanic peaks

240
00:31:43,918 --> 00:31:46,944
towering nearly 6,000 metres high...

241
00:31:47,655 --> 00:31:50,886
crowned by the snow-capped summit of Kibo.

242
00:32:01,602 --> 00:32:06,562
Kilimanjaro is only a million years old,
but in the prime of its life.

243
00:32:17,651 --> 00:32:20,245
The summit is a hostile, arctic world,

244
00:32:20,387 --> 00:32:24,016
wherethe temperature can plunge
to minus 20 Celsius.

245
00:32:24,925 --> 00:32:28,224
The thin air carries half
the oxygen of sea level.

246
00:32:28,929 --> 00:32:31,056
Nothing can live here permanently.

247
00:32:36,270 --> 00:32:39,137
But Africa's Rift volcanoes
are not immortal.

248
00:32:39,840 --> 00:32:42,365
Built of brittle lava and soft pumice,

249
00:32:42,710 --> 00:32:44,735
they are very vulnerable to the elements.

250
00:32:51,118 --> 00:32:56,852
Further north is a volcano three times
older than Kilimanjaro... Mt. Kenya.

251
00:32:57,891 --> 00:33:03,090
...To the local people it is Kirinyaga...
the "Mountain of Brightness."

252
00:33:19,146 --> 00:33:21,444
Time has weathered Mt. Kenya's slopes

253
00:33:21,615 --> 00:33:24,140
and allowed the toughest animals
and plants the chance

254
00:33:24,284 --> 00:33:26,718
to conquer its alpine moorland.

255
00:33:29,857 --> 00:33:33,384
Each evening cabbage groundsels
bunch up against the cold...

256
00:33:34,395 --> 00:33:37,922
their special leaves secreting
a film of antifreeze.

257
00:33:49,643 --> 00:33:53,943
Above 4,000 metres any moisture
in the ground turns to ice...

258
00:33:54,748 --> 00:33:56,215
heaving the soil...

259
00:33:56,650 --> 00:33:59,517
making it tricky for plants
to get a firm hold.

260
00:34:05,292 --> 00:34:08,989
To survive, some mosses
have lost their roots altogether...

261
00:34:09,129 --> 00:34:11,689
and ride over the icy carpet.

262
00:34:17,171 --> 00:34:22,268
On Mt. Kenya it is winter every night...
and summer every day.

263
00:34:25,713 --> 00:34:28,739
Here on the equator... 4 kilometres up...

264
00:34:28,882 --> 00:34:31,749
the power of the tropical sun is intense.

265
00:35:08,222 --> 00:35:10,713
The giant lobelia's coat of downy leaves

266
00:35:10,858 --> 00:35:13,691
help protect its delicate flowers
from the cold.

267
00:35:16,463 --> 00:35:19,159
But this unusual plant
has only conquered Mt. Kenya

268
00:35:19,299 --> 00:35:22,666
with the help of
scarlet-tufted malachite sunbirds...

269
00:35:23,003 --> 00:35:25,164
they're high-altitude pollinators.

270
00:35:29,676 --> 00:35:33,407
In exchange the sunbirds
get especially-rich nectar...

271
00:35:33,614 --> 00:35:36,640
crucial fuel on these chilly moorlands.

272
00:35:43,190 --> 00:35:46,887
Mt. Kenya's moorlands provide
little comfort for large mammals.

273
00:35:47,261 --> 00:35:51,698
But highland rock hyraxes can survive
among the shelter of rocky outcrops.

274
00:35:58,472 --> 00:36:01,532
Though bigger and hairier than
their plains-dwelling cousins,

275
00:36:01,642 --> 00:36:04,543
these hyraxes can still
feel the twinge of cold...

276
00:36:05,279 --> 00:36:07,076
especially the newly born.

277
00:36:16,156 --> 00:36:20,559
East Africa's Rift mountains are
like islands in a sea of cloud.

278
00:36:21,662 --> 00:36:23,823
Battered and whittled away
by the elements,

279
00:36:23,964 --> 00:36:26,262
their lives are very short indeed.

280
00:36:35,909 --> 00:36:39,470
Mt. Kenya once stood much higher
than even Kilimanjaro,

281
00:36:39,613 --> 00:36:41,376
but today it is shrinking.

282
00:36:47,621 --> 00:36:51,148
In another 3 million years
it may even look like this

283
00:36:52,626 --> 00:36:54,355
the neighbouring Aberdares range

284
00:36:54,494 --> 00:36:56,724
more ghost of mountain than mountain

285
00:36:56,864 --> 00:37:00,664
studded with ancient lava stumps
called the "Dragon's Teeth".

286
00:37:05,639 --> 00:37:07,300
A kilometre lower than Mt. Kenya,

287
00:37:07,441 --> 00:37:11,172
the summit of the Aberdares is
often buried among the clouds.

288
00:37:14,781 --> 00:37:19,241
Rainwater - draining off its moorlands
feeds many of Kenya's major rivers.

289
00:37:44,611 --> 00:37:45,305
In the Aberdares,

290
00:37:45,445 --> 00:37:49,814
water is the principal force carving away
at the flanks of the range.

291
00:38:10,304 --> 00:38:15,606
As the water flows downhill it washes
important minerals from the volcanic soil.

292
00:38:17,311 --> 00:38:19,006
Forest animals, like bushbuck,

293
00:38:19,146 --> 00:38:22,047
can't get enough sodium and potassium
in their diet,

294
00:38:22,182 --> 00:38:26,414
so they need to visit special places
where the salts are more concentrated.

295
00:38:31,325 --> 00:38:35,762
These clearings are an important meeting
ground for all sorts of animals.

296
00:38:43,670 --> 00:38:45,467
Elephants are great earth-movers,

297
00:38:45,605 --> 00:38:50,804
using their delicate trunks and fork-lift
tusks to excavate the rich soil.

298
00:39:14,034 --> 00:39:18,027
The gentle, weathered slopes of
the Aberdares make them an easy climb.

299
00:39:18,972 --> 00:39:21,532
Herds of elephants frequently
wander up to the moorlands,

300
00:39:21,675 --> 00:39:25,975
especially in the dry season,
when food down below is scarce.

301
00:39:30,117 --> 00:39:33,575
In the shadow of Mt. Kenya,
they come to feast on heather.

302
00:39:34,354 --> 00:39:36,151
Not the usual ground-dwelling shrub

303
00:39:36,289 --> 00:39:39,986
but giant bushes,
twice as tall as the elephants.

304
00:40:06,553 --> 00:40:10,319
There's not much to tempt large predators
up to this chilly moorland,

305
00:40:10,457 --> 00:40:12,448
but serval cats are common.

306
00:40:14,361 --> 00:40:15,658
In amongst the tussock grass,

307
00:40:15,796 --> 00:40:17,559
there's plenty to catch their eye.

308
00:40:43,423 --> 00:40:46,415
Catching mice requires real stealth
and patience.

309
00:40:47,994 --> 00:40:50,792
But in the Aberdares,
there's another local delicacy...

310
00:40:51,031 --> 00:40:52,396
even more challenging.

311
00:41:01,041 --> 00:41:02,099
...moles.

312
00:41:38,645 --> 00:41:42,012
Mountains, because of their isolation
from other environments,

313
00:41:42,149 --> 00:41:44,242
are places of real surprise.

314
00:41:44,851 --> 00:41:48,343
Here in the Aberdares,
half the servals are totally black

315
00:41:48,488 --> 00:41:51,252
the product of a rare gene
which has multiplied

316
00:41:51,391 --> 00:41:53,416
among this confined population.

317
00:41:54,928 --> 00:41:56,919
Because they have
so few competitors up here,

318
00:41:57,063 --> 00:42:00,555
mountain servals probably
don't need the camouflage of spots,

319
00:42:00,667 --> 00:42:04,728
and may benefit from the extra warmth
absorbed by a black coat.

320
00:42:11,678 --> 00:42:15,273
But lurking in the forests of
Mt. Kenya and the Aberdares...

321
00:42:15,415 --> 00:42:17,246
an even greater surprise...

322
00:42:19,152 --> 00:42:23,213
...the black panther...
a rarely-glimpsed version of the leopard.

323
00:42:26,526 --> 00:42:28,994
Though spotted leopards are
found across the continent,

324
00:42:29,129 --> 00:42:31,120
their magnificent black counterparts seem

325
00:42:31,264 --> 00:42:34,961
only to arise
on Africa's giant Rift mountains.

326
00:43:09,069 --> 00:43:11,663
Isolation can play all sorts of tricks.

327
00:43:12,138 --> 00:43:15,005
On Mt. Kenya some of
the pied colobus monkeys

328
00:43:15,141 --> 00:43:16,836
are virtually albino...

329
00:43:27,354 --> 00:43:29,083
It's evolution in action...

330
00:43:29,623 --> 00:43:30,920
but it's hard to guess what if any

331
00:43:31,057 --> 00:43:33,582
advantage this flamboyant
white coat might

332
00:43:33,660 --> 00:43:36,220
bring in a cold mountain forest.

333
00:43:48,074 --> 00:43:50,406
Africa's mountains play a fundamental role

334
00:43:50,543 --> 00:43:53,376
in generating new forms of life
on the continent.

335
00:43:55,448 --> 00:43:58,246
As they rise and fall they create
temporary barriers

336
00:43:58,385 --> 00:44:02,344
to the movements of animals and plants
and isolate them in unique

337
00:44:02,489 --> 00:44:04,354
and challenging environments...

338
00:44:05,692 --> 00:44:08,160
promoting change and evolution...

339
00:44:21,608 --> 00:44:26,136
Humans have always resisted the challenge
of settling on Africa's mountains.

340
00:44:28,615 --> 00:44:31,277
But one of our closest and
most charismatic relatives

341
00:44:31,418 --> 00:44:34,319
has found a home above the clouds.

342
00:44:38,258 --> 00:44:39,725
Right in the heart of the continent,

343
00:44:39,859 --> 00:44:42,157
sandwiched between
the mountains of East Africa

344
00:44:42,295 --> 00:44:44,627
and the rainforests of West Africa,

345
00:44:44,764 --> 00:44:46,163
are the Virungas

346
00:44:46,299 --> 00:44:51,236
a range of active volcanoes towering
more than four kilometres high.

347
00:44:56,509 --> 00:44:58,033
Cloaked in thick vegetation,

348
00:44:58,178 --> 00:45:04,117
the lush slopes of these mountains are
home to a very special creature indeed.

349
00:45:11,925 --> 00:45:13,552
...the mountain gorilla.

350
00:45:22,202 --> 00:45:25,569
Mountain gorillas are the largest primates
in the world.

351
00:45:26,139 --> 00:45:27,902
With their massive frames and thick,

352
00:45:28,041 --> 00:45:31,204
dark fur they're well-built
for mountain life.

353
00:45:42,389 --> 00:45:44,983
These gorillas have
very particular needs...

354
00:45:45,725 --> 00:45:47,352
they can only live on unstable,

355
00:45:47,494 --> 00:45:49,962
volcanic mountains
where the regular turnover

356
00:45:50,096 --> 00:45:54,055
of soil encourages the growth of
rich herbs and vines.

357
00:45:57,003 --> 00:45:58,698
And this is their problem...

358
00:45:58,972 --> 00:46:01,236
the soils of the Virungas are so fertile

359
00:46:01,374 --> 00:46:07,609
that today's mountain gorillas face
a new form of isolation - agriculture.

360
00:46:09,582 --> 00:46:10,742
But these terraced fields

361
00:46:10,884 --> 00:46:13,216
and the Volcanic slopes on which they lie

362
00:46:13,353 --> 00:46:15,651
are under two million years old...

363
00:46:17,590 --> 00:46:20,252
and gorillas are ten million years old.

364
00:46:22,429 --> 00:46:26,763
They were in this part of Africa long
before the Virungas were even born...

365
00:46:27,133 --> 00:46:31,160
Iooking for opportunities...
responding to change...

366
00:46:31,604 --> 00:46:34,630
colonising new and emerging highlands...

367
00:46:39,446 --> 00:46:41,607
In the future the descendants of
these gorillas

368
00:46:41,748 --> 00:46:44,581
will certainly face
many more challenges...

369
00:46:44,651 --> 00:46:46,118
and not just from us...

370
00:46:47,687 --> 00:46:50,781
but also from their dynamic mountain home.

371
00:47:46,312 --> 00:47:50,578
The extraordinary wildlife that we see
on Africa's mountains today

372
00:47:50,717 --> 00:47:53,049
is the product of a living landscape...

373
00:47:54,020 --> 00:48:00,016
...ever-shaping and always creating...
a great, unfolding drama of life...

