1 00:00:44,534 --> 00:00:46,684 Hemingway was born here in Chicago - 2 00:00:46,854 --> 00:00:50,324 a city of ferocious energy, a production line, 3 00:00:50,494 --> 00:00:53,566 a series of constantly moving parts. 4 00:00:55,694 --> 00:00:58,606 It thrives on invention, ambition 5 00:00:58,774 --> 00:01:02,892 and the need to be bigger and better than anywhere else. 6 00:01:08,614 --> 00:01:12,926 But this land of giants doesn't seem to intimidate its inhabitants. 7 00:01:13,094 --> 00:01:16,769 They find time to talk to strangers wherever they find them. 8 00:01:16,934 --> 00:01:19,528 - (PALIN) Were you born in Chicago? - Yes, I was. 9 00:01:19,694 --> 00:01:24,085 It seems a kind of macho city, in a way. I don't know why. 10 00:01:24,254 --> 00:01:29,089 It seems people here are still part of the West and the pioneer spirit. 11 00:01:29,254 --> 00:01:34,282 There's a saying in Chicago that a punch in the mouth is worth a thousand words. 12 00:01:34,454 --> 00:01:39,050 So, yeah, it still kinda sticks. The hog butchers to the world. 13 00:01:39,214 --> 00:01:43,093 Maybe this is Hemingway's style. He used very few words. 14 00:01:43,254 --> 00:01:45,563 I would say that's it. 15 00:01:45,734 --> 00:01:51,730 When you travel, they find out you're from Chicago, they go, "Bang bang! Gangster." 16 00:01:51,894 --> 00:01:54,886 Yeah. This is not true any longer? 17 00:01:55,054 --> 00:02:00,606 No. You won't see anyone driving around with machine guns gunning people down. 18 00:02:00,774 --> 00:02:03,607 - I'm in the wrong place. - That's changed. 19 00:02:03,774 --> 00:02:09,451 They may have run out of gangsters, but there are lots of Hemingway clues here. 20 00:02:09,614 --> 00:02:12,367 My new friend couldn't be more helpful. 21 00:02:12,534 --> 00:02:17,528 Any time you need anything in this city, please feel free to give me a call. 22 00:02:17,694 --> 00:02:19,605 But don't call me at work. 23 00:02:19,774 --> 00:02:22,572 (FRANTIC SHOUTING) 24 00:02:32,654 --> 00:02:38,286 You might assume that Hemingway's tough-guy image was honed in the heart of Chicago. 25 00:02:39,574 --> 00:02:44,125 In fact, he was born and brought up in the suburbs out to the west - 26 00:02:44,294 --> 00:02:46,933 in one of the most respectable of them. 27 00:02:50,574 --> 00:02:53,611 0ak Park, ten miles from downtown Chicago, 28 00:02:53,774 --> 00:02:59,246 was founded 150 years ago by those who had won the American Civil War. 29 00:02:59,414 --> 00:03:03,202 It was intended to be sober, civilised and God-fearing. 30 00:03:09,974 --> 00:03:14,092 Hemingway, they say, called it a place of wide lawns and narrow minds. 31 00:03:14,254 --> 00:03:18,850 That could be one reason why nothing much has changed. 32 00:03:21,414 --> 00:03:25,726 Except, in some cases, to make the houses look even older. 33 00:03:26,734 --> 00:03:32,047 This is Hemingway's birthplace. It's in the middle of a 19th-century makeover. 34 00:03:41,854 --> 00:03:46,325 This is the house in which Hemingway first saw the light of day, 35 00:03:46,494 --> 00:03:48,564 a few months short of the 20th century. 36 00:03:48,734 --> 00:03:52,329 He was born the son of a respected doctor 37 00:03:52,494 --> 00:03:56,726 and his mother, Grace, was a creative woman who wrote songs. 38 00:03:56,894 --> 00:04:03,686 It's funny, there's a definite feeling to Oak Park of the leafy suburbs of Sheffield. 39 00:04:03,854 --> 00:04:06,243 And there is a connection. 40 00:04:06,414 --> 00:04:11,408 This house belonged to Ernest's grandfather, Ernest Hall, 41 00:04:11,574 --> 00:04:14,327 who was an immigrant from Sheffield. 42 00:04:14,494 --> 00:04:20,649 So the handle Ernest was made in Sheffield - as indeed was myself. 43 00:04:20,814 --> 00:04:24,170 What is that picture there? The little girl. 44 00:04:24,334 --> 00:04:27,053 - That's little Ernie. - Ernie? 45 00:04:27,214 --> 00:04:31,810 He was dressed by his mother as a little girl for the first two years. 46 00:04:31,974 --> 00:04:35,330 With the long hair and the dress. 47 00:04:47,854 --> 00:04:50,368 It's really rather special, this. 48 00:04:50,534 --> 00:04:54,812 It's obviously one of Hemingway's childhood notebooks. 49 00:04:54,974 --> 00:04:57,613 Must have been nine or ten. 50 00:04:57,774 --> 00:05:00,766 "My favourite authors are Kipling, O Henry. 51 00:05:00,934 --> 00:05:03,448 "My favourite sports are trout fishing, 52 00:05:03,614 --> 00:05:08,369 "hunting, shooting... football and boxing..." 53 00:05:08,534 --> 00:05:14,530 And then this very prescient couple of lines at the end here, which says, 54 00:05:14,694 --> 00:05:17,686 "I intend to travel and write." 55 00:05:17,854 --> 00:05:21,210 Well... how right he was. 56 00:05:27,254 --> 00:05:31,645 (WOMAN) This is the place where American literature was changed for ever. 57 00:05:31,814 --> 00:05:37,684 So this is the actual room where Hemingway first came into the world. 58 00:05:37,854 --> 00:05:40,004 What are the reactions of people 59 00:05:40,174 --> 00:05:44,611 when they're confronted with this - the centre of the shrine? 60 00:05:44,774 --> 00:05:46,685 We've had some tears. 61 00:05:46,854 --> 00:05:53,930 A man from Belorussia wept. He said, "This is one of the happiest days of my life." 62 00:05:54,094 --> 00:05:58,531 We also had a gentleman from Spain and he said, 63 00:05:58,694 --> 00:06:02,892 "This is the house where Hemingway smelled his first smell, 64 00:06:03,054 --> 00:06:06,364 "saw his first colour, had his first sensations." 65 00:06:06,534 --> 00:06:10,971 - So there are different responses. - (PALIN) Quite intense. 66 00:06:11,974 --> 00:06:15,967 I'm trying to smell the smells that Hemingway first smelt. 67 00:06:16,134 --> 00:06:19,968 - Right here. - I smell our cameraman's cheesy socks. 68 00:06:22,774 --> 00:06:27,894 Next door is a picture of Grandfather Ernest with Hemingway and two of his sisters. 69 00:06:28,054 --> 00:06:32,605 What catches my eye is that Ernest Junior, aged only five, 70 00:06:32,774 --> 00:06:36,403 appears to be cradling a double-barrelled shotgun. 71 00:06:36,574 --> 00:06:41,045 Guns were so much a part of his life - and so little a part of mine - 72 00:06:41,214 --> 00:06:44,445 that it occurs to me I should find out more about them. 73 00:06:47,574 --> 00:06:52,967 Before leaving, I rashly asked if any of Hemingway's mother's songs still existed. 74 00:06:56,134 --> 00:07:01,447 # Oh, lovely Walloona 75 00:07:01,614 --> 00:07:07,530 # Thy laughing ripples kiss the shore 76 00:07:07,694 --> 00:07:12,131 # Oh, lovely Walloona 77 00:07:12,294 --> 00:07:17,288 # How can we praise thee more? 78 00:07:17,454 --> 00:07:22,528 # Swing daintily, oarsmen 79 00:07:22,694 --> 00:07:25,891 # Walloona sleeps 80 00:07:26,054 --> 00:07:31,048 # The day is o'er # 81 00:07:31,214 --> 00:07:34,684 (BANGING AND SAWING) 82 00:07:45,334 --> 00:07:50,727 Hello, Peter. It's Michael Palin here. You said to ring you if I need anything. 83 00:07:50,894 --> 00:07:55,524 - I wonder if you might be able to help me. - (GUNSHOT) 84 00:07:55,694 --> 00:07:59,687 Present it out a little bit further to give you eye relief. 85 00:07:59,854 --> 00:08:05,372 I suppose I can't appreciate Hemingway without knowing what a real gun feels like. 86 00:08:05,534 --> 00:08:09,527 Peter, who seems to know everything, met me at a range. 87 00:08:09,694 --> 00:08:12,766 They feel like toys. I know they're not toys. 88 00:08:12,934 --> 00:08:18,804 We're all brought up with these, but the real thing could do a lot of damage. 89 00:08:18,974 --> 00:08:24,970 Yeah. A bullet moving at 1,500 feet a second could ruin your afternoon. 90 00:08:25,134 --> 00:08:28,729 Would you like to select a couple of targets? 91 00:08:28,894 --> 00:08:34,332 - First we have our Ma Barker look. - Yeah. Mm... 92 00:08:34,494 --> 00:08:40,967 Facing down a 12-gauge here. Then we'll move to the balaclava bad guy. 93 00:08:41,134 --> 00:08:44,206 - Very hairy arms. - It helps! 94 00:08:44,374 --> 00:08:49,129 And this is a target used by police departments around the globe. 95 00:08:49,294 --> 00:08:54,129 I don't want to shoot at someone I might know, so let's take the silhouette. 96 00:08:54,294 --> 00:08:56,888 - It's the least worst. - All righty. 97 00:09:01,294 --> 00:09:05,367 This is the 44 Magnum of "Dirty Harry" fame. 98 00:09:05,534 --> 00:09:07,525 What do they use these for? 99 00:09:07,694 --> 00:09:11,084 Stray elephant in the park, things of that nature. 100 00:09:11,254 --> 00:09:15,042 - So is that ready? - Yeah. It's ready to go. 101 00:09:16,974 --> 00:09:21,331 Let me take a look at your stance. That looks pretty good. 102 00:09:21,494 --> 00:09:23,405 - (GUNSHOT) - Good job. Dead centre. 103 00:09:25,414 --> 00:09:29,009 Relax. It's just like shaking a hand. 104 00:09:29,174 --> 00:09:33,372 - I'm shaking like a leaf. - It's the first time. 105 00:09:34,734 --> 00:09:39,046 Why is it the Americans have guns and the British don't? 106 00:09:39,214 --> 00:09:44,652 I think because you're so close together, you'd be shooting each other in large numbers, 107 00:09:44,814 --> 00:09:47,453 so you've settled for bashing each other. 108 00:09:47,614 --> 00:09:50,412 You're further apart, so you need guns. 109 00:09:50,574 --> 00:09:54,772 - We need longer-range weapons. - That's a wonderful theory. 110 00:09:54,934 --> 00:09:58,370 But Hemingway was really a shotgun man. 111 00:09:58,534 --> 00:10:03,289 I've got a shotgun here. We'll get it set up for you and give it a go. 112 00:10:03,454 --> 00:10:09,290 I should have one of those, I suppose. Then I'll have a lie-down and a cup of tea. 113 00:10:10,374 --> 00:10:12,524 Here's your 12-gauge. 114 00:10:12,694 --> 00:10:15,686 Why don't we step in and give it a go? 115 00:10:18,294 --> 00:10:22,845 - There's just one in here? - Actually, there's three. You pump it. 116 00:10:23,014 --> 00:10:26,131 And squeeze easily. Fire. 117 00:10:26,294 --> 00:10:28,808 Bloody hell! 118 00:10:30,214 --> 00:10:33,490 - Nearly took my arm off! - It's a heck of a kick. 119 00:10:33,654 --> 00:10:38,933 That's probably enough of that. Thank you very much. 120 00:10:39,094 --> 00:10:42,609 (BAND MUSIC AND SIRENS) 121 00:11:01,694 --> 00:11:05,972 Every year the Hemingway family escaped the summer in Chicago 122 00:11:06,134 --> 00:11:09,729 and took a steamer to the rural peace of north Michigan. 123 00:11:32,254 --> 00:11:34,722 It was in this idyllic countryside 124 00:11:34,894 --> 00:11:38,443 that Ernest sharpened his skills at hunting, fishing and shooting. 125 00:11:51,214 --> 00:11:53,205 - How ya doing? - Morning. 126 00:11:53,374 --> 00:11:56,047 - Something I can help you with, sir? - Yes. 127 00:11:56,214 --> 00:12:01,208 I need a gun, really, for hunting purposes. 128 00:12:01,374 --> 00:12:04,366 - Can you recommend one for me? - Sure. What are you hunting? 129 00:12:04,534 --> 00:12:06,968 Grouse is a real popular game bird. 130 00:12:07,134 --> 00:12:12,652 Though the array of weapons is frightening, the man who sells them is quite the opposite. 131 00:12:12,814 --> 00:12:16,489 He couldn't be more helpful to a novice like me. 132 00:12:16,654 --> 00:12:21,489 His shop contains everything the sharp sportsman could desire. 133 00:12:38,814 --> 00:12:43,729 If I'm going to be a hunter, I'm going to have to learn a whole new language. 134 00:12:43,894 --> 00:12:46,408 I'm not sure I really want to. 135 00:12:46,574 --> 00:12:51,329 Look at this. Urine corner. Doe urine. 136 00:12:51,494 --> 00:12:56,648 Red fox urine. You can't buy that in Safeways. 137 00:12:57,734 --> 00:12:59,531 "Reduces fear." 138 00:12:59,694 --> 00:13:01,525 Irresistible. 139 00:13:02,694 --> 00:13:05,288 Well, just this once. 140 00:13:12,494 --> 00:13:17,090 The woods round here were full of game for Hemingway to practise on. 141 00:13:17,254 --> 00:13:20,246 Dr Hemingway taught his son to respect guns 142 00:13:20,414 --> 00:13:24,089 and to understand the wildlife he was about to shoot. 143 00:13:30,814 --> 00:13:34,124 I've got one afternoon to learn everything. 144 00:13:45,334 --> 00:13:48,053 What sort of thing do you shoot here? 145 00:13:48,214 --> 00:13:52,332 Pheasants and grouse and woodcock. Some duck hunting. 146 00:13:52,494 --> 00:13:57,648 My companion is Dirk Shorter, owner of this private hunting reserve. 147 00:13:57,814 --> 00:14:01,602 Perhaps he can tell me the point of all these hunting accessories. 148 00:14:01,774 --> 00:14:04,049 - Will this improve my chances? - Maybe. 149 00:14:04,214 --> 00:14:06,682 OK. I'll just try a little. 150 00:14:12,254 --> 00:14:15,724 Now's the time for a man to do what a man's got to do. 151 00:14:15,894 --> 00:14:17,293 Pheasant. 152 00:14:20,374 --> 00:14:21,853 Rabbit! 153 00:14:24,734 --> 00:14:27,043 Woodcock. Behind the apple tree. 154 00:14:29,334 --> 00:14:32,804 (PALIN) The first one was just a lucky fluke. 155 00:14:32,974 --> 00:14:38,526 0nce I start hitting things, I shed my inhibitions and begin to enjoy myself. 156 00:14:38,694 --> 00:14:40,173 Grouse. 157 00:14:41,334 --> 00:14:43,131 Squirrel here. 158 00:14:43,294 --> 00:14:44,773 Partridge. 159 00:14:52,254 --> 00:14:55,052 What's the point of shooting nowadays? 160 00:14:55,214 --> 00:14:59,332 We're supposed to be saving life. Is that unduly sentimental? 161 00:14:59,494 --> 00:15:02,850 No. Compassion for animals is good, but... 162 00:15:03,894 --> 00:15:08,922 I don't think we should get too far removed from where we're from. 163 00:15:09,094 --> 00:15:11,813 You know, we are predators. 164 00:15:12,814 --> 00:15:18,605 I don't think of myself as a predator, but I suppose I am. My wife is less sentimental... 165 00:15:20,294 --> 00:15:24,367 She was brought up as a farmer's daughter and they had a duck and... 166 00:15:24,534 --> 00:15:27,844 - They butchered it. - No, they ate it. 167 00:15:28,014 --> 00:15:32,405 - I suppose they had to butcher it first. - It was a Christmas duck. 168 00:15:32,574 --> 00:15:36,283 We get the butchering done by other people now. 169 00:15:36,454 --> 00:15:40,766 I think we get removed. We eat the meat and we don't think about that. 170 00:15:42,134 --> 00:15:47,606 I might shoot people. There are a lot of people I'd rather shoot, but ducks are lovely. 171 00:15:58,014 --> 00:16:02,087 Well, though I say it myself, that wasn't a bad day. 172 00:16:03,454 --> 00:16:05,445 I missed these two... 173 00:16:07,214 --> 00:16:09,682 but I bagged all these. 174 00:16:11,294 --> 00:16:15,207 I know I'm only shooting at clays, but what do you expect? 175 00:16:15,374 --> 00:16:17,365 I'm not Hemingway. 176 00:16:21,014 --> 00:16:22,652 Yet. 177 00:16:30,654 --> 00:16:35,284 The nerve centre of the Hemingway summers, and the subject of Grace's song, 178 00:16:35,454 --> 00:16:37,445 was Walloon Lake. 179 00:16:37,614 --> 00:16:40,811 I'm introduced to it today by Strat Peaslee. 180 00:16:40,974 --> 00:16:46,332 Each year, his parents came from Chicago to live in one of these lakeside cabins. 181 00:16:47,454 --> 00:16:50,252 The Hemingways called theirs Windermere. 182 00:16:50,414 --> 00:16:54,123 It was built in 1899 - the year Ernest was born. 183 00:16:54,294 --> 00:16:58,333 - (PALIN) There it is. It looks all closed up now. - For the winter. 184 00:16:58,494 --> 00:17:03,488 - Do you remember the house? - Very well. Had a lot of good times there. 185 00:17:03,654 --> 00:17:06,487 (PALIN) I've got these wonderful pictures of him. 186 00:17:06,654 --> 00:17:11,603 I think it must have been on that little jetty there. 187 00:17:11,774 --> 00:17:17,326 There's another one there of him fishing on the jetty. 188 00:17:17,494 --> 00:17:20,213 Did you know Dr Hemingway? 189 00:17:20,374 --> 00:17:22,365 Yes, I knew the doctor. 190 00:17:22,534 --> 00:17:24,923 I had a bumble bee in my ear 191 00:17:25,094 --> 00:17:31,203 and so my mother took me down to Dr Hemingway and he took the bee out. 192 00:17:31,374 --> 00:17:33,842 So I got the famous ear. 193 00:17:34,854 --> 00:17:38,324 A Hemingway shrine. People come and look at your ear. 194 00:17:40,574 --> 00:17:45,853 From Walloon Lake, Hemingway used to hike to the village of Horton Bay. 195 00:18:10,694 --> 00:18:13,083 This is the Horton Bay general store, 196 00:18:13,254 --> 00:18:17,805 which is pretty much exactly the same as it was in Hemingway's day. 197 00:18:17,974 --> 00:18:21,523 I'm going to try some fishing around here 198 00:18:21,694 --> 00:18:26,893 and I've got a list that Hemingway made up in 1916 for his fishing expedition. 199 00:18:27,054 --> 00:18:30,524 I'm going to see if they have any of this stuff. 200 00:18:33,934 --> 00:18:36,687 - Cook kit? - No. 201 00:18:36,854 --> 00:18:38,970 - Axe? - No. 202 00:18:39,134 --> 00:18:40,533 - Two reels? - No. 203 00:18:40,694 --> 00:18:42,013 - Two rods? - No. 204 00:18:42,174 --> 00:18:44,768 - Doing well. Hooks? - Yes, I do. 205 00:18:44,934 --> 00:18:48,165 - Right over there. - Fantastic. 206 00:18:48,334 --> 00:18:49,972 - Camera? - No. 207 00:18:50,134 --> 00:18:52,329 We've got one of those. Matches? 208 00:18:52,494 --> 00:18:54,132 - Yes. - Good. 209 00:18:54,294 --> 00:18:56,489 Combination knife and fork? 210 00:18:56,654 --> 00:18:58,406 - Yes. - Fantastic. 211 00:18:58,574 --> 00:19:00,849 - Safety pins? - No. 212 00:19:01,014 --> 00:19:06,247 It doesn't sound very Hemingwayesque. Do a bit of darning in the woods. 213 00:19:06,414 --> 00:19:10,327 - Here's one you'll have. Pedometer? - What is that? 214 00:19:10,494 --> 00:19:15,522 I think it's something you attach to your body to show how far you've walked. 215 00:19:15,694 --> 00:19:17,924 He was very keen on walking and keeping lists. 216 00:19:18,094 --> 00:19:19,732 - No pedometers? - No. 217 00:19:19,894 --> 00:19:22,613 There's a gap in the market there. 218 00:19:22,774 --> 00:19:24,093 Cheesecloth? 219 00:19:24,254 --> 00:19:25,573 - No. - Belt? 220 00:19:25,734 --> 00:19:27,645 - No. - Potted meat? 221 00:19:27,814 --> 00:19:29,532 - Yes, we have Spam. - Spam! 222 00:19:29,694 --> 00:19:31,013 Yes! 223 00:19:31,174 --> 00:19:36,453 # Spam, Spam, Spam Lovely Spam, Spam, Spam... # 224 00:19:36,614 --> 00:19:40,289 Sorry. I get royalties on that. Worms? 225 00:19:40,454 --> 00:19:44,493 - Yes. We have night crawlers. - What are they? 226 00:19:44,654 --> 00:19:47,646 - They're big fat worms. - Do you have those? 227 00:19:47,814 --> 00:19:51,409 I'm sure you can get rid of them. I'll start with the worms. 228 00:19:57,294 --> 00:20:02,084 Armed with night crawlers, fishing rod and the advice of John Sheets, 229 00:20:02,254 --> 00:20:04,609 I'm ready to haul them in. 230 00:20:04,774 --> 00:20:06,685 This is the Horton Creek? 231 00:20:06,854 --> 00:20:09,129 - Which Hemingway fished. - He did fish it. 232 00:20:12,854 --> 00:20:15,652 It's like throwing a piece of string into a loop. 233 00:20:15,814 --> 00:20:20,934 You cast using the weight of the line to cast out the fly. Give it a try. 234 00:20:22,854 --> 00:20:24,845 OK. I've got it. 235 00:20:25,014 --> 00:20:29,565 So I pull this out and it's kind of a flicking movement? 236 00:20:30,574 --> 00:20:34,613 Yeah. Slow it down a little bit and you'll be better off. 237 00:20:34,774 --> 00:20:37,652 Just pick it up. Watch my ears. 238 00:20:39,334 --> 00:20:42,326 - That was a close one. - Was it? Oh, God. 239 00:20:42,494 --> 00:20:46,373 Leave the fly in the water and twitch it along. 240 00:20:46,534 --> 00:20:50,163 I forgot I was fishing. I was just trying to throw the line. 241 00:20:50,334 --> 00:20:52,370 OK. Then you pick it up. 242 00:20:54,494 --> 00:20:58,612 - Oops. - Look at that. Where did he go? 243 00:20:58,774 --> 00:21:01,049 - There he is. - Do you see him? 244 00:21:01,214 --> 00:21:05,332 There he is. That's a steelhead. My gosh, look at that fish. 245 00:21:06,854 --> 00:21:08,845 Oh, shit. 246 00:21:10,854 --> 00:21:15,530 There you go. Lift that line up and then pull it back. 247 00:21:20,254 --> 00:21:21,733 And again. 248 00:21:21,894 --> 00:21:25,728 - Do you have a curse about fish? - I think I do, actually. 249 00:21:28,014 --> 00:21:30,403 Look at that. Wow. 250 00:21:30,574 --> 00:21:33,486 - OK. - Oh. 251 00:21:33,654 --> 00:21:36,407 It may not look like it, but I am learning. 252 00:21:36,574 --> 00:21:41,045 I've learned that I almost certainly lack the killer instinct. 253 00:21:42,054 --> 00:21:44,045 Oh, crocodile. 254 00:21:44,214 --> 00:21:49,004 0r maybe, like Hemingway, you just have to start very young. 255 00:21:55,614 --> 00:22:00,768 Hemingway learnt a lot from the Indians who used to live around Walloon Lake. 256 00:22:00,934 --> 00:22:06,247 To find out where they are now, I'm heading north across the Mackinac Bridge, 257 00:22:06,414 --> 00:22:10,407 over the Great Lakes and almost up to the Canadian border. 258 00:22:10,574 --> 00:22:13,725 1.50. Thanks. 259 00:22:20,494 --> 00:22:26,729 When Hemingway was growing up in north Michigan, the Indians were his friends. 260 00:22:26,894 --> 00:22:30,682 He knew a lot of them, had adventures with them. 261 00:22:30,854 --> 00:22:35,644 40 years later, Indians were people who threw tomahawks at John Wayne. 262 00:22:35,814 --> 00:22:41,844 They were always the enemy. A real case of historical brainwashing, I think. 263 00:22:44,534 --> 00:22:46,525 We shall see. 264 00:22:47,654 --> 00:22:49,451 There's one. Gotcha! 265 00:22:56,054 --> 00:22:59,490 Casinos are the new Indian territory. 266 00:22:59,654 --> 00:23:05,968 Legal restrictions on gambling don't apply to reservations in the same way as elsewhere. 267 00:23:06,134 --> 00:23:09,046 The local tribes can run these places their way. 268 00:23:10,094 --> 00:23:15,771 Sage pushes negative energy away. Cedar's for healing. Tobacco is for prayer. 269 00:23:15,934 --> 00:23:19,449 - Why do you have that in a casino? - It's an Indian casino. 270 00:23:19,614 --> 00:23:23,573 These are our medicines. We want everyone to have a good stay. 271 00:23:23,734 --> 00:23:26,202 We want them to feel balanced. 272 00:23:26,374 --> 00:23:31,323 Have you any hints that may make me a luckier man? 273 00:23:31,494 --> 00:23:36,887 It depends on your individual luck. It depends if you yourself are lucky. 274 00:23:37,054 --> 00:23:39,204 A wave of that won't help? 275 00:23:39,374 --> 00:23:44,926 No. This is just to clean and purify the area and bring in positive energy. 276 00:23:45,094 --> 00:23:47,164 That's good. 277 00:23:47,334 --> 00:23:50,804 You never lose here because you always have a good time. 278 00:23:50,974 --> 00:23:54,011 - That's true. - That's a philosophy I've heard before. 279 00:23:54,174 --> 00:23:56,768 - Thank you very much. - You're welcome, sir. 280 00:24:02,534 --> 00:24:05,446 Do you have to be of Indian origin to work here? 281 00:24:05,614 --> 00:24:07,684 - No. - Are you an Indian? 282 00:24:07,854 --> 00:24:11,130 - Yes. - 16. I was close. 283 00:24:11,294 --> 00:24:14,730 - Which tribe are you from? - The Sault Ste Marie tribe. 284 00:24:14,894 --> 00:24:17,169 - Sault Ste Marie? - Chippewa Indians. 285 00:24:17,334 --> 00:24:19,894 What's the turnover in a place like this? 286 00:24:21,414 --> 00:24:23,803 - Thank you. - You're welcome. 287 00:24:23,974 --> 00:24:27,046 Last year, for '97, 288 00:24:27,214 --> 00:24:32,925 the revenues for this place was about 50 million. 289 00:24:33,094 --> 00:24:36,052 50 million? How much profit? 290 00:24:36,214 --> 00:24:39,047 He said, noticing the chips going fast. 291 00:24:39,214 --> 00:24:41,648 The Chippewas are down here. 292 00:24:42,734 --> 00:24:45,248 We're a non-profit organisation, 293 00:24:45,414 --> 00:24:50,613 so all the revenues that this place generates goes back into the tribe. 294 00:24:50,774 --> 00:24:52,810 So what would it be used for? 295 00:24:52,974 --> 00:24:56,569 It supports our native social services programmes. 296 00:24:56,734 --> 00:25:02,730 Education. A lot of medical programmes - substance-abuse programmes. 297 00:25:02,894 --> 00:25:08,366 At the rate I'm playing, you'll be able to build an extension to the casino. 298 00:25:08,534 --> 00:25:11,367 - We appreciate it. - Thank you. 299 00:25:22,734 --> 00:25:26,443 In 1917, the Americans joined the war in Europe. 300 00:25:26,614 --> 00:25:32,883 18-year-old Hemingway volunteered as a Red Cross ambulance driver in Italy. 301 00:25:43,534 --> 00:25:46,207 I'm reading his war novel, "A Farewell to Arms", 302 00:25:46,374 --> 00:25:49,844 as I follow the last leg of his journey into Milan. 303 00:25:54,734 --> 00:25:56,725 He wouldn't have arrived here. 304 00:25:56,894 --> 00:26:02,890 This station, Milan Central, was built under Mussolini's Fascist regime in the 1930s. 305 00:26:13,494 --> 00:26:16,088 Mussolini not only made trains run on time, 306 00:26:16,254 --> 00:26:21,248 he made sure they would run into one of the mightiest terminals in the world. 307 00:26:21,414 --> 00:26:26,613 Well, I've seen some stations in my time, but this one beats the lot. 308 00:26:26,774 --> 00:26:31,211 You can probably get every station I've ever seen into Milan Central 309 00:26:31,374 --> 00:26:35,162 and still have room for the pyramids. Amazing. 310 00:26:47,574 --> 00:26:50,771 Leaving the Roman emperors of Milan Central behind, 311 00:26:50,934 --> 00:26:54,847 I enter the world of Versace, Armani and Dolce & Gabbana - 312 00:26:55,014 --> 00:26:58,563 the modern emperors whose images dominate Milan. 313 00:27:11,654 --> 00:27:13,963 I'm looking for the hospital. 314 00:27:14,134 --> 00:27:17,365 (SPEAKS ITALIAN) 315 00:27:26,254 --> 00:27:30,566 The Italian Red Cross still trains volunteers for times of emergency. 316 00:27:30,734 --> 00:27:33,453 Though the class isn't exactly military, 317 00:27:33,614 --> 00:27:39,883 I guess this is the sort of thing Hemingway would have learned in the summer of 1918. 318 00:27:46,734 --> 00:27:49,168 (SPEAKS ITALIAN) 319 00:27:49,334 --> 00:27:52,724 Excuse me. 320 00:27:52,894 --> 00:27:54,885 Grazie. 321 00:27:56,414 --> 00:28:00,487 (LECTURER SPEAKS ITALIAN) 322 00:28:12,694 --> 00:28:14,491 OK? You have some problem? 323 00:28:14,654 --> 00:28:19,808 Yes, I have a problem. I'm not strong enough. It's a problem of strength. 324 00:28:19,974 --> 00:28:21,930 I've got the heaviest bit. 325 00:28:35,374 --> 00:28:37,365 It's a boy. 326 00:28:38,374 --> 00:28:40,171 It's a bouncing boy. 327 00:28:44,454 --> 00:28:47,252 Impressed by my grasp of the human body, 328 00:28:47,414 --> 00:28:52,204 the Red Cross has given me my very own ambulance and instructor, Piero. 329 00:28:52,374 --> 00:28:56,890 - We seem to be going through the gears. - See round the back? 330 00:28:57,054 --> 00:28:59,363 (VOICES ON SCANNER) 331 00:28:59,534 --> 00:29:05,325 I don't have to reply to these people, do I? I don't know what they're talking about. 332 00:29:05,494 --> 00:29:07,485 Slowly. 333 00:29:07,654 --> 00:29:10,566 - We're going here? - Yeah. Slowly. 334 00:29:10,734 --> 00:29:13,089 - Slowly, slowly. - Yes, I see. 335 00:29:13,254 --> 00:29:15,449 - There. - Yeah. Right. 336 00:29:17,374 --> 00:29:20,252 - Good. - OK? 337 00:29:20,414 --> 00:29:24,612 - Are we ready for a bit of siren? - OK. 338 00:29:26,574 --> 00:29:29,134 - (SIREN WAILS) - Slowly, slowly. 339 00:29:30,814 --> 00:29:33,328 Completely panicked that car in front. 340 00:29:34,774 --> 00:29:39,052 - OK? Off. - Yeah. OK. 341 00:29:39,214 --> 00:29:44,334 As soon as the siren goes on, everyone disappears. You have the road to yourself. 342 00:29:44,494 --> 00:29:46,007 Slowly. 343 00:29:46,174 --> 00:29:50,372 I'm glad I haven't got anyone hurt in the back. Now where? 344 00:29:50,534 --> 00:29:53,924 - Now it's a little dangerous. - A little dangerous? 345 00:29:54,094 --> 00:29:56,085 - (SIREN WAILS) - Red light. 346 00:29:56,254 --> 00:29:58,085 Off, off. 347 00:30:01,254 --> 00:30:05,452 - It's a good noise. - OK. Go. 348 00:30:05,614 --> 00:30:08,970 - Shut up. - Slowly. 349 00:30:09,134 --> 00:30:12,046 How fast do these go? Up to 180? 350 00:30:12,214 --> 00:30:15,524 Slowly, slowly. Slowly. 351 00:30:17,654 --> 00:30:23,524 After my lesson, Piero seems to feel the need for a stiff drink. 352 00:30:23,694 --> 00:30:27,130 This gives me a chance to meet his colleagues. 353 00:30:27,294 --> 00:30:32,414 What's the word in Italian? It's important to know what to do when someone... 354 00:30:32,574 --> 00:30:38,285 We discuss matters like blood transfusion and mouth-to-mouth resuscitation. 355 00:30:45,214 --> 00:30:49,287 They're a good bunch and highly selective in their TV viewing. 356 00:30:49,454 --> 00:30:52,810 (CHEERING) 357 00:31:00,774 --> 00:31:03,447 After completing his training in Milan, 358 00:31:03,614 --> 00:31:08,608 Hemingway was moved up to the battle front just 25 miles from Venice. 359 00:31:21,494 --> 00:31:25,328 Here, the Italian and Austrian armies faced each other 360 00:31:25,494 --> 00:31:28,247 across flat, eerily still farmland. 361 00:31:36,654 --> 00:31:42,650 0ne of Hemingway's tasks was to cycle round distributing provisions to the Italians. 362 00:31:46,214 --> 00:31:50,730 Determined to get close to the action, he often came to the Piave River, 363 00:31:50,894 --> 00:31:53,692 which marked the front line. 364 00:32:00,214 --> 00:32:05,129 One night, Hemingway arrived here bringing cigars and chocolates for the troops 365 00:32:05,294 --> 00:32:08,013 at the same time as a mortar attack began. 366 00:32:08,174 --> 00:32:11,211 He was hit by a trench mortar with a flash 367 00:32:11,374 --> 00:32:14,332 "like a blast furnace door being blown open." 368 00:32:14,494 --> 00:32:19,693 He was covered in about 200 pieces of mortar and took four months to recover. 369 00:32:19,854 --> 00:32:22,448 He came back here 30 years later, 370 00:32:22,614 --> 00:32:26,653 dug a hole in the ground and buried a thousand-lire note. 371 00:32:26,814 --> 00:32:30,523 I'm going to see if I can still find it. 372 00:32:30,694 --> 00:32:36,132 I'm going to use one of the German clasp knives that he used to bury it. 373 00:32:42,734 --> 00:32:46,613 - No, no. Non era qui. Era lì. - Ah. 374 00:32:48,134 --> 00:32:53,572 According to the bridge keeper's daughter, it's actually down here. So... 375 00:32:55,894 --> 00:33:00,445 - No. Non qui. Laggiù. - Oh. Grazie. 376 00:33:00,614 --> 00:33:03,447 He says it's over there. 377 00:33:03,614 --> 00:33:06,333 Like everything involving Hemingway, 378 00:33:06,494 --> 00:33:10,965 romance and reality have merged seamlessly to create confusion. 379 00:33:11,134 --> 00:33:16,083 - It's not there. It's over on the island. - Grazie. Grazie. 380 00:33:17,814 --> 00:33:23,332 I'm not going all the way over there in the middle of winter, with my bad back. 381 00:33:23,494 --> 00:33:26,611 I'll make my own little offering to Hemingway. 382 00:33:26,774 --> 00:33:33,009 I'll bury my copy of "A Farewell to Arms". This is the one I actually used at school. 383 00:33:36,454 --> 00:33:39,844 It seems a silly thing to do, but somehow suitable. 384 00:33:40,014 --> 00:33:42,653 Without this book, I wouldn't be here, 385 00:33:42,814 --> 00:33:48,810 and without the injuries he received here, he probably wouldn't have written it. 386 00:33:53,774 --> 00:33:59,292 He was lucky to survive. Two Italian soldiers blown up with him were killed. 387 00:33:59,454 --> 00:34:05,404 For the first time, Hemingway had come face to face with real pain and suffering. 388 00:34:09,294 --> 00:34:11,808 After a few months, his wounds healed, 389 00:34:11,974 --> 00:34:17,367 but a preoccupation with death and injury stayed with him for the rest of his life. 390 00:34:26,974 --> 00:34:30,250 This corner of the war was to claim many more casualties. 391 00:34:30,414 --> 00:34:36,410 The huge loss of life was something the Italians would not be allowed to forget. 392 00:35:11,414 --> 00:35:14,531 It's a strange feeling to be on a hillside 393 00:35:14,694 --> 00:35:19,404 comprised of the remains of over 100,000 Italians who died in the First World War, 394 00:35:19,574 --> 00:35:21,371 but that's what this is. 395 00:35:21,534 --> 00:35:25,243 On Mussolini's orders, all the bodies were gathered here 396 00:35:25,414 --> 00:35:29,885 to create this extraordinary memorial at Redipuglia. 397 00:35:53,334 --> 00:35:57,009 Just three years after the war ended, Hemingway was back in Europe. 398 00:35:57,974 --> 00:36:00,852 (BELLS TOLL) 399 00:36:01,014 --> 00:36:05,212 Breakfast. Here we are. Coffee. 400 00:36:05,374 --> 00:36:08,252 Thank you. Thank you. Oops! 401 00:36:10,614 --> 00:36:12,093 Santé. 402 00:36:13,654 --> 00:36:17,647 The only bookshop in the world that offers sleeping accommodation 403 00:36:17,814 --> 00:36:21,124 is Shakespeare and Company of Paris. 404 00:36:25,334 --> 00:36:29,373 It also offers a spectacular location at the heart of the capital, 405 00:36:29,534 --> 00:36:33,925 which Hemingway described as "the city I love best in all the world." 406 00:36:37,134 --> 00:36:43,050 For the last 35 years, it's been run with benign eccentricity by George Whitman. 407 00:36:43,214 --> 00:36:47,492 - Thank you for the accommodation. - Was your coffee OK? 408 00:36:47,654 --> 00:36:50,691 - The coffee was good. - That's great. 409 00:36:50,854 --> 00:36:55,006 It's not often in a bookshop you can get a bed for the night. 410 00:36:55,174 --> 00:36:59,531 - What sort of place is this? - I let my imagination run wild. 411 00:36:59,694 --> 00:37:04,927 People think they're coming in to an orthodox, respectable place. 412 00:37:05,094 --> 00:37:09,326 They come upstairs and they find it's a private residence 413 00:37:09,494 --> 00:37:12,611 and they're looking at the pictures in my bedroom. 414 00:37:12,774 --> 00:37:16,892 How do people find out about the bookstore? 415 00:37:17,054 --> 00:37:19,614 What people do you give accommodation to? 416 00:37:19,774 --> 00:37:24,643 People like you are the ones we like to give to, but we refuse hardly anyone 417 00:37:24,814 --> 00:37:28,250 if we think they won't walk out with too many books. 418 00:37:28,414 --> 00:37:31,770 - Is it writers? - We give priority to writers. 419 00:37:31,934 --> 00:37:34,653 All we ask writers to do is to make their beds. 420 00:37:34,814 --> 00:37:39,842 A lot of times there's just students living here. You met a couple tonight. 421 00:37:40,014 --> 00:37:44,610 - They help me to run the bookstore. - Where did he begin? 422 00:37:44,774 --> 00:37:51,088 If I want to find out a feeling of Hemingway's Paris, where would I start? 423 00:37:51,254 --> 00:37:56,408 Leaving the bookstore, just follow the river down. 424 00:37:56,574 --> 00:38:02,444 In Paris there are so many landmarks, it's almost impossible to go wrong. 425 00:38:03,814 --> 00:38:06,123 The Eiffel Tower. 426 00:38:11,174 --> 00:38:15,167 Les Invalides - last resting place of Napoleon. 427 00:38:17,014 --> 00:38:20,006 The new glass pyramid at the Louvre. 428 00:38:22,494 --> 00:38:25,452 0h, dear. The Eiffel Tower again. 429 00:38:36,134 --> 00:38:39,809 When Hemingway first came to Paris in 1921, 430 00:38:39,974 --> 00:38:43,125 he couldn't afford to live in a landmark location. 431 00:38:43,294 --> 00:38:48,288 He and his wife found themselves in a working-class neighbourhood. 432 00:38:48,454 --> 00:38:52,129 (MARKET TRADERS CALL) 433 00:39:01,454 --> 00:39:03,445 The Rue Mouffetard has looked up 434 00:39:03,614 --> 00:39:07,732 since Hemingway described his local cafe as a cesspool, 435 00:39:07,894 --> 00:39:10,966 but finding his apartment takes some doing. 436 00:39:11,134 --> 00:39:14,922 In Paris, Hemingway's only a little bit famous. 437 00:39:26,854 --> 00:39:28,287 Ah, hello. 438 00:39:28,454 --> 00:39:32,208 Je m'appelle Michael Palin, avec le BBC. 439 00:39:32,374 --> 00:39:35,730 Nous faisons un film de Ernest Hemingway 440 00:39:35,894 --> 00:39:39,967 et je sais que c'est I'apartment de Hemingway là. 441 00:39:40,134 --> 00:39:43,092 Est-il possible de passer quelques minutes avec vous 442 00:39:43,254 --> 00:39:45,722 dans I'apartment d'Hemingway? 443 00:39:47,134 --> 00:39:50,171 - Sure. Come on up. - Oh. 444 00:39:51,694 --> 00:39:55,209 Not French at all. He's American. Oh, well. 445 00:39:57,894 --> 00:40:00,567 This staircase must have been the one Hemingway climbed, 446 00:40:00,734 --> 00:40:03,043 maybe carrying coal for the fire. 447 00:40:03,214 --> 00:40:08,891 Their apartment had no hot water and the shared toilet was out on the landing. 448 00:40:10,374 --> 00:40:12,285 - Hello. - Come on in. 449 00:40:12,454 --> 00:40:15,730 - Morning. Hello. - Hi. 450 00:40:15,894 --> 00:40:19,045 Michael Palin. Nice of you to let us in here. 451 00:40:19,214 --> 00:40:25,130 It's an amazing coincidence that Hemingway's flat has still got an American living in it. 452 00:40:25,294 --> 00:40:27,125 - Yeah. - Is that why you got it? 453 00:40:27,294 --> 00:40:30,923 No. I got it for the area. It's a fun area of Paris. 454 00:40:31,094 --> 00:40:36,771 - No ghost of Ernie staggering up the stairs? - Sometimes, but it could be my neighbours. 455 00:40:36,934 --> 00:40:41,166 It's interesting you say it's a smart area because when he was here 456 00:40:41,334 --> 00:40:47,443 it was just a very poor part and he only had a few coals in the fire 457 00:40:47,614 --> 00:40:51,084 and an antiseptic tank which was emptied every day. 458 00:40:51,254 --> 00:40:56,089 There wasn't much of anything which is why many writers lived here. 459 00:40:56,254 --> 00:41:02,170 I can see Hemingway's shirt down there. Still left as it was. Tossed to one side. 460 00:41:02,334 --> 00:41:04,564 - Do you rent this place? - I do. 461 00:41:04,734 --> 00:41:07,373 But from an American woman who's selling it. 462 00:41:07,534 --> 00:41:10,970 Really? It's up for sale. How much? 463 00:41:11,134 --> 00:41:15,013 - One million francs. - Which is, say, in dollars? 464 00:41:15,174 --> 00:41:18,644 About 160,000 to 180,000 US dollars. 465 00:41:18,814 --> 00:41:24,889 - That's amazing. For just this space. - Yes. For just this one studio room. 466 00:41:25,054 --> 00:41:28,808 For 160 to 180,000 dollars, all this could be yours. 467 00:41:28,974 --> 00:41:34,287 Well, I've got ten dollars. What's this? A dead dog? 468 00:41:34,454 --> 00:41:39,574 This apartment may once have been in the poorest part of Paris, 469 00:41:39,734 --> 00:41:41,964 but Hemingway was in Paris. 470 00:41:42,134 --> 00:41:47,413 He was young, he loved the city and he wanted to do everything, instantly. 471 00:41:47,574 --> 00:41:53,729 So I'm going to try and recreate a sort of Hemingway day in Paris. 472 00:41:57,294 --> 00:42:01,446 A game of tennis in his beloved Jardin du Luxembourg. 473 00:42:10,174 --> 00:42:13,610 A run round to Gertrude Stein's to meet fellow Americans. 474 00:42:18,134 --> 00:42:23,891 He shared the French passion for cycling and subscribed to "Pedale" magazine. 475 00:42:27,334 --> 00:42:29,245 And there he is in the gym. 476 00:42:29,414 --> 00:42:34,966 To make extra money, he used to hire himself out as a sparring partner. 477 00:42:46,014 --> 00:42:51,247 Much as I like getting stuck in, it's nice to watch someone else do the work. 478 00:42:53,014 --> 00:42:55,972 That has the right sort of ring to it. Yeah. 479 00:42:56,134 --> 00:42:58,125 Go to the Top - that should do it. 480 00:43:00,854 --> 00:43:07,293 Prix Finistère, numéro neuf à gagner. Cinquante francs, s'il vous plaît. 481 00:43:09,694 --> 00:43:14,688 Go to the Top - suitably Hemingway. Competitive. 482 00:43:16,134 --> 00:43:21,447 Hemingway loved anything involving horses, racetracks and the chance of a flutter. 483 00:43:21,614 --> 00:43:23,445 Come on, neuf. 484 00:43:23,614 --> 00:43:25,730 Allez, neuf! 485 00:43:29,894 --> 00:43:31,771 Allez, neuf! 486 00:43:31,934 --> 00:43:36,371 Allez! Allez! Oh! Where is it? 487 00:43:39,534 --> 00:43:42,048 In second place for 1.5 laps, 488 00:43:42,214 --> 00:43:46,412 and when I began to cheer, it faded down to eighth place. 489 00:43:46,574 --> 00:43:51,853 I don't know why I bother to do this. Go to the Top! 490 00:44:04,654 --> 00:44:08,442 Hemingway greedily lapped up almost every Parisian experience. 491 00:44:16,054 --> 00:44:18,807 0n the other hand, he made very few French friends. 492 00:44:18,974 --> 00:44:23,650 His gang of cronies remained almost exclusively American. 493 00:44:26,134 --> 00:44:29,012 In his day they would have played baseball. 494 00:44:29,174 --> 00:44:31,893 Nowadays the fashion is for Ultimate Frisbee. 495 00:44:44,214 --> 00:44:49,811 Hemingway deferred to the French only in certain areas, like food and art. 496 00:44:54,054 --> 00:44:59,174 Then, if there was any time left, what better to do than liberate the city? 497 00:45:04,454 --> 00:45:07,969 Bonjour. Bonjour. Bonjour, Paris. 498 00:45:08,134 --> 00:45:10,807 This is exactly what Hemingway did. 499 00:45:10,974 --> 00:45:14,171 As the Allies pushed the Germans out in 1944, 500 00:45:14,334 --> 00:45:18,486 he leapt into a tank and set about liberating the places he cared about most. 501 00:45:18,654 --> 00:45:23,125 Brasseries, cafes and the wine cellars at the Ritz Hotel. 502 00:45:24,174 --> 00:45:28,087 - Hello. - (SIREN WAILS) 503 00:45:52,934 --> 00:45:55,494 His early life in Paris ended dramatically. 504 00:45:55,654 --> 00:46:00,284 After a heavy night in March 1928, Hemingway took to the bathroom 505 00:46:00,454 --> 00:46:04,367 only to confuse the flush with the cord of a skylight. 506 00:46:08,534 --> 00:46:09,933 (CRASHING) 507 00:46:12,134 --> 00:46:15,604 What have we got here? Nasty head wound. 508 00:46:15,774 --> 00:46:19,926 Left eye looks defective. The other one has been cut many times. 509 00:46:20,094 --> 00:46:24,804 Tonsils have been gouged. Burns. Internal haemorrhage. 510 00:46:24,974 --> 00:46:28,762 Kidney trouble. Hand injury from punching a glass case. 511 00:46:28,934 --> 00:46:32,643 Broken arm from a car crash. Lacerations from a bolting horse. 512 00:46:32,814 --> 00:46:36,523 Torn muscles in groin. Torn ligaments in right foot. 513 00:46:36,694 --> 00:46:41,688 Anthrax, malaria, haemorrhoids, jaundice. Oh, my God. 514 00:46:41,854 --> 00:46:46,803 These are a few of the illnesses and injuries Hemingway suffered before he was 30. 515 00:46:46,974 --> 00:46:51,968 The pattern continued throughout his life. He was almost wilfully accident-prone. 516 00:46:55,174 --> 00:46:59,804 In the next few years, he broke his arm, shot himself while fishing, 517 00:46:59,974 --> 00:47:02,772 kicked a door and broke his... 518 00:47:06,254 --> 00:47:08,245 It may just be the anaesthetic, 519 00:47:08,414 --> 00:47:13,886 but I have a feeling I'm going to be seeing a lot more of Ernest Hemingway.